Oil Change 18000

I’m not going to start WWIII by claiming my brand of oil and filter is the best.
I will say that if you get a Honda filter, be sure to get the one ending in A01. The one ending in A02 has paper end caps. FWIW, they appear to be Filtechs.

Here is some oil and filter info I have previously shared which is handy since a lot of mfgs have not added the Clarity to their selection menus.

Honda filter is a Filtech 15400-PLM-A01, don’t get the A02; it has paper end caps.
Amsoil filter is EA15K13
Fram filter is XG7317
You can use those numbers to cross reference other brands
0W-20 wt detergent oil with API Certification Seal , do not use additives
3.5 qts with filter change
pp 482-485 in the manual

Oil filter from College Hills Honda
15400-PLM-A01_94109-14000
It’s a Filtech, standard in most Hondas 65mm oil filter wrench
17 mm oil drain plug
30 Ft/lb torque
Must use new oil plug crush-washer
Don’t use A02 filter-it has cardboard endcaps instead of metal ones on A01
Fram website lists Ultra Synthetic filter XG7317 for 2018 Clarity.
Amsoil is Ea15K13, verified by email-mail.
Amsoil also pulls up Wix 51356.

Here is how to warm up the engine before hand and to circulate the oil afterwards so you can check the level.

To put car in Maintenance Mode to run engine
Posted I think by bpratt on 12/14/18
Is there a run the engine mode for emissions?
Yes. There is a sequence of button pushing that will cause the engine to run.
1. Push start button twice WITHOUT touching brake to turn ignition on and Park symbol lights up in red.
2. Press brake, pump gas pedal to floor twice and release.
3. Press brake, shift to neutral.
4. Release brake, pump gas pedal twice.
5. Press brake, shift to Park.
6. Release brake, pump gas pedal twice. Dash will now say "maintenance mode."
7. Press brake, push start button once. Engine will start and idle.
To cancel this "mode", power off the car

I have read that the specifications for full synthetic oil have been lowered so that even partially synthetic oil now can be labeled as full synthetic. So any name brand 0W-20 oil with the API Certification will be fine IMHO. And I don’t think you can even find 10W-20 in Dino oil.
If you have a couple of lifetimes to spare to go down the bottomless rabbit hole of oil/filters, just go to bobistheoilguy website. Remember, I warned you.

PS: Watch out for the quarter turn fasteners on the underbody cover. They are not captive and I spent almost as much time finding the last one as I did on the oil change. LOL.
And if you want to go whole hog and install a Fumoto drain valve, it’s # F106SX. Makes it easy peasy and you don’t have to get a crush washer every time. I suggest getting the plastic socket adapter and vinyl tubing for a 100% no mess drain.
Happy changing!

 

Edd

I'll try to answer so as to not start WW3. I do not offer opinions nor recommendations on oil or filters...just the basics. Actually its not really Clarity specific either sans the 0w-20.

As to your question about 0w-20 Castrol Bio-synthetic (which is full synthetic BTW)...I actually am running this oil in two of my vehicles right now including the Clarity. At next OCI, I plan to have the oil analyzed from both vehicles to see how it performed since it is a newer product. The downside is the cost...most brands will be much more cost effective than Castrol Bio-Synthetic. I am running this oil because I am interested in the science...this is not a recommendation.

I will be glad to pm you the results of the analysis if interested although it will be months before next OCI.

Therefore, unless you want to use Bio-Synthetic for your own reasons...a quality 0w-20 oil will work just fine as long as it meets both API and vehicle manufacturer standards. Comes down to $$$'s.

Oil filter manufacturers typically produce three grades of filters...ok...better...best. Biggest difference other than price...type of filter media (organic vs synthetic), rubber vs silicone parts, surface area of media, can quality etc. Essentially, the more efficient the filter media is...the higher grade filter it is considered. For example, filters which advertise longer OCI intervals typically have full synthetic filter media which allows for a longer life span of optimal efficiency. Grade of filter chosen typically depends on: oil type (blend or full synth), OCI, vehicle usage and environmental conditions. Your vehicle...your choice.

As a guide...OEM filters tend to be the middle grade (aka "better") with mid-grade filter material...typically a blend of organic and synthetic. Nothing wrong with OEM filters. Nothing wrong with third party after market filters if chosen carefully.

Key consideration:
Oil filter chosen must include a bypass valve rated for a certain PSI (or narrow range) as determined by the vehicle manufacturers engineers for a given engine. This should not be understated. Every filter manufacturer is different. Some filters spec'd out for a certain vehicle model may have tight tolerance for the PSI valve...others may not.

OEM filters should have this PSI valve spec down pat. For those who want to use another brand...a little research will reveal the PSI specs as the figure is easily found in the spec sheet for most filters. Pick one with tight tolerance for the make/model/engine you are dealing with.

The Clarity throws a curve ball since every car is driven differently hence the question "how many miles are actually on the ICE?" This fact potentially creates another decision point when choosing a filter and oil type. That is for each individual owner to decide.

You mentioned you are an experienced oil DIY'er...so you know the drill. You probably have a list of "preferred" brands for both oil and filters.

If solicited, I will be glad to pm my thoughts on brands for either oil or the filters...and assume some others on this forum would be glad to provide input as well if you send them pm's.

I will also be glad to provide more detail on the issues discussed above since this is short and to the point...but only through a pm. As alluded to in @KentuckyKen post...its hard to write-up anything oil that doesn't evoke the ire of some. Hopefully this post is not one of those as it is meant to be informative without the personal bias.

Hope this helps.