/ Register

My progress towards Level 2 charging

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by Fast Eddie B, May 6, 2019.

To remove this ad click here.

Page 2 of 2
  1. May 7, 2019 #21
    KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Kentucky
    That may be technically correct, but you still have to follow code when wiring in receptacle. While in the past a separate neutral connection to the service panel was not used for appliances, that is no longer the case. All modern 240 V appliances like dryers and ranges will require a 4 wire cord, receptacle, and wiring with the bonding strap inside removed. I believe the reason is that almost all appliances now have electronics and displays that require 120 V to operate. There is also a safety issue with preventing the cabinet from possibly conducting to ground in the event of a problem. I know for sure that it is a code violation to install any receptacle with out connecting and using all of its connections. So you cant install a NEMA 14-30 without running a neutral.

    I am not an EE nor a licensed electrician so take the above with a grain of salt and I advocate always following code, having a licensed electrician sign off on your work, and having any required inspections done. That’s just common sense from a safety, legal, and liability standpoint.
    And as always, safety first and YMMV.
     

    2. To remove this ad click here.

  2. May 8, 2019 #22
    bpratt

    bpratt Active Member

    In my circuit breaker box the neutral and ground are connected to the same place. So a single ground wire could be used for both neutral and ground.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2019
  3. May 8, 2019 #23
    Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member

    Mineral Bluff, GA & Lenoir City, TN
    I think that’s verboten.

    Yes, neutral and ground are “bonded” - connected together - at the main panel. But by code, I believe that’s the only place they should be connected. Has something to do with separate current paths back to the main panel for neutral and ground, and is a safety concern.

    I know we have at least one electrical engineer here - maybe he can make the safety concern clearer.
     
    KentuckyKen likes this.
  4. May 8, 2019 #24
    KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Kentucky
    Not an EE or licensed electrician, but @Fast Eddie B speaks the truth. That would definitely be a code violation and unsafe as well.
     
  5. May 8, 2019 #25
    Robert_Alabama

    Robert_Alabama Well-Known Member

    I think someone already said this, but as long as you only have 240V load (no 120V requirements), then you should be fine without a neutral. I'd make sure of the requirements of the EVSE you will buy to verify no 120V need (requirement for a neutral). By the way, it would seem to me that there has to be a cheaper way to open that door without power other than to buy a 10kW generator. Maybe hydraulics (with a manual pump) or a really slowly geared gearbox and a hand crank? Even if it is really slow to open with another method, you only have to do it once in a blue moon...
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2019

    6. To remove this ad click here.

  6. May 8, 2019 #26
    KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Kentucky
    That’s exactly one of the pluses of the ChargePoint EVSE. It does not require or even have the capability to use a neutral connection.
     
  7. May 8, 2019 #27
    Fast Eddie B

    Fast Eddie B Well-Known Member

    Mineral Bluff, GA & Lenoir City, TN
    When ordering the door, we opted for a $90 manual backup. Go back to the first post and you'll see the hand crank hanging from a nail.

    But...

    ...to use it you take the top guard of the motor to expose a square shank. Then you start cranking. And cranking. And...you get the idea. And as you're cranking, the motor itself is going up with the door - you can see it on the left bottom, here during installation:

    [​IMG]

    So, to get it open enough to get the plane or tractor out would require increasingly taller ladders or scaffolding. Its just VERY poor design, and would likely take half a day or more to get the door up.

    Anyway, its not like the generator could only be used for that. I think it might suffice to power our 1,350 sq ft living area, at least for essentials, and with a proper transfer switch, of course.
     
Page 2 of 2

Share This Page