Audio upgrade for clarity

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by HariN, Jun 3, 2018.

  1. sniwallof

    sniwallof Member

    Look at the later post, I did not like the Infinitys (too bright, plus they had an unnecessary coaxial structure with another tweeter, for yet more highs which was definitely not needed with the new Infinity tweeters) and sent the front door woofers back for Kickers:

    Later, I put the same Kickers in the back doors too, but did not change the tweeters in the back doors. To me the audio was a LOT better, but it never was quite right.

    Maybe I should have tried to keep the original tweeters with new woofers as a first go (in the past for other cars, the improvement was the other way, changing the tweeters first), or looked more carefully at woofer/tweeter pairs (individual woofers and tweeters designed to be used together). One problem is that the dedicated pairs most commonly need a separate speaker wire from the door to the pillar for a crossover in the door. A few mount the crossover with the tweeter in the pillar, for those without the door to pillar wires. For example, the Audison Prima system sounded pretty good in a Gen 1 Volt (separate crossovers for each tweeter that mount in the pillar).

    Of course to some extent, the radio itself, and any internal crossovers in the head unit before the wires to the individual speakers, might limit what can be achieved.
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  2. wjcarpenter

    wjcarpenter New Member

    Sorry for my ignorance, but what did you mean by a "rockwell volume knob"?
  3. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Member Subscriber

    You would need to install an audio manager app for the volume knob to interface with the actual headunit (amp out versus the android digital audio source out). To do that you have to root/honda hack the headunit and likely change the output controls via a framework mod. I haven't done this as, well - just no interest. However, I plan to get back at audio tweaks when the weather improves in a few weeks. Glad that it worked for the digital side. What knob did you use (link to acquire for testing)?
  4. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Member Subscriber

    It's a powered sub, so it didn't matter. Please read my entire install thread if you have any other questions after I would be happy to follow up. My solution worked for me, others may not like it. Last on my list is modifying the ANC module to allow for just an analog damping of cabin noise versus the predictive BUS triggers that seem to be present by default that cause problems. I am also seriously considering creating a center channel in the front for stage imaging.... hmmm (that will require a virtual 3.1 module.... need more time and beer.

    Cheers, Cash
  5. wjcarpenter

    wjcarpenter New Member

    (Assuming you are asking me about the USB volume control.) It was just a generic USB knob that I had for desktop use. Because I am cheap, that's what I bought. :) It's this one (, but there are zillions just like it. This one is too big for use in the car. I was going to make one myself until I saw how cheap it was to just buy one. I still might if a solution arises. Interfacing via bluetooth might also be a possibility if the head unit software situation is resolved.
  6. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Member Subscriber

    Browsing the tech site today while contemplating my center channel project... still undecided on this one for several reasons. However wanted to post a grab I made from the Clarity Fuel Cell docs that has all of Honda's speaker locations and information for the body (Clarity base shell) we only got the 8 speakers versus 11 possible. Here are the details for the factory locations.


    Attached Files:

  7. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Member Subscriber

    Decided to put the center channel 2.1 DolbyIIPro idea on the back burner and go back to the modified ANC module. I want to get as much analog ANC back without affecting the "upgraded" sound system performance. I am trying to find a "shade tree mechanic" version of an ANC evaluation protocol to actually test the dang thing. I can watch the pulses on the Osmelliscope, but the phase impact is hard to quantify with the BUS channels removed. What I need is a good old fashioned RTA or Db meter.... Will report back when it is not so dang cold in Dallas.... I know, 9 pages back I was complaining about the heat...

    The Foster speaker that will fit perfectly is pricey if I can't power it correctly and other bodge fit job speakers I think would result in a reduction in sound quality over quantity and what I have working now sounds pretty good for the price point. Would love a good sound processor, but that would triple my price of play.

  8. dannieboiz

    dannieboiz New Member

    Where did you guys tap in for signal for the sub? Since the speakers are only at the doors, did you tap in from there and ran the hi level to the trunk?

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