Repair issues and fixes

Mine will not shutoff. Is there a way to reset the light or does it do it automatic after filling the tire?

 

Usually you need to drive for a while before the light will reset.

 

The pressure needs to be above a certain minimum in order for it to be ok again. I believe 35 psi is the absolute minimum.

Then you need to drive for a while and it should turn off. It can take a while, kind of annoying. If you want to be on the safe side, inflate to 40 psi on all tires, it should be fine with that.

 

Terrible advice. 36 psi is the vehicles rated pressure and 40 would be well above that COLD. Especially bad advice for both wear and handling. A pound or two over is one thing but four? They didn’t stamp a pressure rating on the car for it to be ignored.

 

Well, as mentioned, the type pressure sensor will always go of at 36. I had it happen and others here too, so 36 is not an option, period.

The max tyre pressure on the tyre says 50. So ...

Also, I had a couple screws stuck in my tire and fixed by Hyundai. Guess what ... The pressure was set at 40.

So I have no problem running them that high. Also, I had my tires running at that pressure for almost two years. During my 196 software update, Hyundai rotated the tires and checked them. They are in perfect condition and have lots of tread and lifetime left in them. And that's directly from Hyundai, again!

So I don't know why you say it's a TERRIBLE advice.

 

That’s not a fix... that’s why. That’s an issue that you’re bypassing at the expense of your handling and wear.
Maybe get Hyundai to FIX the issue?... but whatever, do as you wish, it’s your car.
Just stop advising others to do it as it’s a crappy solution.

no advice is always better than crappy advice.

 

If 40 PSI and some driving on it turns the light off. It it does, reduce the pressure to 37/38. Drive on this settings and see when happens. If the light comes ON again
1. check the accuracy of your tire pressure gauge - many are cheap, not so hot. Use a couple to see is there is any difference in the reading.
2. get the Hyundai to fix the problem.

I always drive 1PSI over the recommended tire pressure. Years ago I red an article about proper tire pressure, written by a Michelin engineer. This was his recommendation. It works for me.

 

My understanding is that running tires underinflated is far more dangerous that overinflated. Underinflated tires flex more with each rotation, generating heat. as long as you're below the Max pressure on the sidewall, it's OK.

 

Absolutely correct!

 

I run mine at 60 psi, they track like rails, and I expect that the wear will be dead-flat across the
tread like it was on all my sets of Prius tires. I stick with "hypermiler style", there's absolutely
no harm in it and much to be gained. Door placard pressures are for those that *want* a
squishy ride with no road feel.

_H*

 

It actually worked. Thank you
No dealing with a braking system recall. The brakes have been locking when pressing lightly on brakes. No remedy yet according to dealer

 

Yes, this is a good way to go.I have actually been doing what @Jared Potter has been doing,40psi.I use nitrogen,and there's a difference in inflation retention. flipthefleet seems to feel 3 - 4psi isn't a problem,especially if you're carrying more.

 

OK, I'll file this under Bizarre ... For a year now, my tires have always been inflated to 30 PSI .. The DEALER SERVICE DEPT. actually set these when I had the car delivered, and for each RECALL so far, they checked and adjusted to 30 PSI ... These are the stock tires that came with the vehicle. I had a nail in a rear tire about 2 months ago & had it repaired and they set pressure again to 30 PSI to match other tires. After driving a bit, the "LOW PRESSURE" light and indicator went off. Yesterday I experienced the situation of the "LOW PRESSURE" indicators coming on - pointing to my left front tire. I noted in the display that ALL of my tires were 28-29 PSI. (Been sitting in a cold garage for 3 days - 45 degrees or so). So I said OK, cold weather, low pressure - stopped at a gas station (fond memories) and inflated all 4 tires to 34-35. The light just refuses to go out. So I'll try to inflate to 36 and see what happens, but THIS is strange!. Like I said - it's been like this for a YEAR. The only recent change was the RECALL #196 for the BMS update.

 

We’ve had this issue addressed twice at the Victoria Hyundai and they still clunk. Replacing the brake pads didn’t work on our 2020 Kona EV. We were even told that’s they way they’re suppose to be! Is this a common problem and are others finding the “fixes” don’t work?

 

As many of you know I am a 'fish out of water' here. My 2021 Kona is sitting on the dealer's lot, waiting for a new battery since October 23 with no expected delivery date. But reading some of the stuff here starts to get to me. I chose the Kona over Tesla M3, at least to some extent, because of Tesla's build quality and service. I figured that since their Pony days Hyundai learned how to build cars. I am not sure any longer.

 

Jenny,
Many years back I had a problem with a leaking clutch seal. The transmission fluid leaked into clutch, soaked the clutch plate which made the clutch slip. It was impossible the drive the car up on a small hill on Broadway in Vancouver. The car was still under warranty. The dealer replaced the clutch plate - twice! Both times at no cost to me. Sure enough the plates started to slip again in a couple of weeks. This time I took the car to a transmission shop. They found the problem, replaced both the oil soaked clutch plate and the pressure plate with a new clutch seal. I had to pay for it BUT, the shop gave me back all the parts they removed and suggested to take them back to my dealer and try to get my money back. It took some negotiation, meeting with the owner of the dealership but I did get my money back.
The morale of the story. Take your car to an other dealer or to a reputable mechanic who knows how to fix breaks. Tell them what your dealer done for you. Ask for their opinion why your breaks clunk and for a written estimate to fix it. Remember if you decide to pay for the work, there is no guarantee that you will get your money back. BUT take the repaired car back to the dealer and try. Your argument is that you felt that your car was unsafe to drive with clunking breaks. The car is under warranty, the dealer's shop was not able to fix it. You got it fixed - now it is safe, Hyundai should cover your expenses.
Good luck - Lars

 

The difference between Tesla and legacy,it's a tech.company where it's adoption for OTA updates reflects this. Hyundai has the ability to do OTA if you go to their HMC website,it lists some of the 2020,2021 vehicles who will utilize it.Hyundai has been okay with the campaigns,and recalls,but it's not forthcoming with the details for these with owners. HMC hasn't demonstrated it's listening to owners who have actively offered feedback on the Kona electric.

I have a 2017 Model X,it had its issues.However,Tesla's use of crowd sourced data,and software driven environment fixes many issues.It can be proactive pulling all the data from its vehicles on the road.


I took a 2021 Model Y out for an over night test drive this month. I will say it's better than the Kona electric overall due to its ability to be updated via OTA, crowd sourced data utilization,and supercharging.Basics on the Y: chrome delete,heat pump;2021 model 3 same.

The Y's advanced ,beta FSD wasn't confidence building.I experienced situations while on the highway where I had to take control because the Y on beta FSD was a little erratic. Also,in beta FSD,the vehicle slowed down while on the highway at an over pass,dangerous at highway speeds because someone could've rear ended us. This is an improvement from when it used to STOP.
It doesn't have grab handles above the passenger doors,the rear 80 split is heavy to manually raise without any assisted integration.The Y's seats were more comfortable,more adjustable,and you can SAVE the driver setting.
The Y handled well,odd it has coil suspension.Kona has rear multi link which gives it a smoother road feel when you hit uneven pavement in my view. Overall,the Y's steering feedback,and handling is more European feel,stiffer.
Y's ability to auto park was great,made it parallel park,and reverse.Hyundai has included this in some of its 2020 vehicles.Why not in the Kona electric gen.1,missed opportunity.Y has a 360 camera view now which helps you see around your vehicle so you can avoid hitting someone,or something.
I took it though country roads,played with the auto high beams which were a little delayed at times.On the Kona, they have ALWAYS activated as they should. Headlights ,combined with the fog lamps,excellent on these dark roads,something Kona electric should have.
Rear view mirror, it's an adjustment due to the narrow rear window.I had to get into traffic so I can see in order to be able to adjust it during the night run.
Supercharging the Y at a V2 with about 15% SOC,took a bio break in a fast food place near by.In about 10 minutes, there was about 200km/124miles added.

It comes down to what you want for your dollar.

 

IMO OTA is a very big plus for Tesla. I've wasted quite a bit of time bringing the Kona in for the 3 recalls in the last 6 months. Based on the track record so far there is probably more to come.

 

Hello All - I had a problem with a scraping noise when turning the steering wheel. The dealer repaired the issue yesterday - they replaced a worm shaft bearing. There is a technical service bulletin for it, so if you give this to your dealer, they should fix it under warranty: TSB#20-ST-003H-1.