Is Hyundai Kona electric right for us?

It's really very easy. All that you have to do is to
1) turn off the main breaker
2) once you decided where you will put the outlet, you have to pop out one of the knock outs to attach the conduit to the breaker panel. Pop outs come in different sizes, use the size needed for 3/4 inch conduit. I recommend the gray plastic conduit as it's easy to work with.
3) run #8 wire (or #6 wire) through the conduit, either as individual wires (neutral = white, bare = ground, red and black = hot) or within the insulation.
4) cut and strip the wires in the correct length where they come out of the conduit and then attach the 14-50 outlet to the end of the conduit and attach the wires to the correct port of the outlet. Red and black go left and right. Bare wire goes to the semi - round pin and white to the slotted pin in the middle.
5) attach the white wire to the same spot on top of your breaker panel where all the other white wires go
6) attach the bare wire to the other side of your circuit board where all the other bare wires are attached (there are screws that you will need to loosen and after inserting the wire, tighten them down for good contact
7) attach the 2 hot wires to a new 50 amp circuit breaker. You will have to find an empty slot in your breaker panel to add the breaker. If you have no empty slot, it gets more complicated. You can replace some of your single breakers with dual breakers.
8) once the breaker is in, you may have to pop out the knock outs from your breaker cover (at the spot you added the 50 amp breaker) to allow attaching it back onto the circuit panel.
9) Turn on the main breaker and check the voltage on the new outlet. Hot to Hot should measure 240 volts or so. Hot (each of the hot sides) to neutral should measure 120 volt or so and Hot (each of the hot sides) to ground should measure 120 volt or so.

If you get the correct voltage at the outlet, add the breaker panel cover again and you are ready for your EVSE.

Sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't.. In my case, it was about 30 mins of work.

 

Don't forget to do a load calculation first, to determine whether you have the electrical capacity to install a 40 amp appliance on your existing service, without overloading the panel. Shame to do all that work and find that your main breaker blows every time the car is plugged in and your water heater cycles on.

Adding a circuit is not a bad DIY job, but if it's your first time working in an electrical panel, it's a good idea to have someone who knows what they're doing helping you out, IMO. Even with the main breaker turned off, there's still stuff in that panel that will kill you.

 

This said, I don't think that you should have an EVSE with a 100 amp breaker panel.. but 150 amp and higher should be sufficient. Of course, if I run my EVSE, AC, all cook fields on my cooktop, the stove, the toaster, hair drier, dishwasher, clothes washer and the clothes dryer at the same time, my main breaker will trip. Even without the EVSE, I could get my main breaker to trip if I turn on everything at the same time. Most of us charge at night where the only thing running is the EVSE and AC and maybe the dryer.. I only have a 150 amp panel and I have never had any issues with my 32 amp EVSE. My electric company's website shows me the average consumption per hour and I have not seen more than 14 kwh draw which is much less than half of the capacity of the 150 amp main breaker. Theoretically, a 150 amp breaker on a 240 volt panel should be able to handle over 30kwh .

 

It really all depends on the load. In some cases 100a service is plenty to add a 40a EVSE (in my case it was). In other cases 150a service won't be big enough. It depends on the existing load in the panel, and that's why load calculations are required.

 

If you have an electric company that gives you statistics on your consumption per hour, it can be very helpful what the actual load on your circuit is.. While they only give me kwh, it is sufficient to calculate amp draw on the panel. From that information, you can see what the real life consumption is and not a theoretical maximum draw. How likely is it that a household runs all 240 appliances at the same time with maximum draw?? Not very likely.. I looked at the actual consumption to determine if I would be close to the panel's capacity.. I did first start out with a 26 amp EVSE and later switched to a 32 amp EVSE as the load on my panel was nowhere close to being a concern.

 

I'm just amazed you're allowed to do that wiring yourself at all in N-A. We are not here in NZ, despite that I would have no problem at all doing it myself.

 

Depends where you are in the US. In Florida, as a homeowner, you are allowed to do any work on your house as long as you pull the permits where applicable. My particular district (county) has very few things that require permits. However, new outlets do require a permit but homeowners can easily pull one and you don't need a contractors license. You can almost remodel an entire home without a permit if you don't relocate or add any electrical outlets, switches or any plumbing.
However, new windows, exterior doors, garage doors all require permits as do new AC systems or roofing replacement. Roofing repairs don't require permits.

 

Same in California. The home owner can pull all of the permits and do the work for any changes on their home. The only exception are structural designs and grid tied solar equipment design, that requires a professional engineer to sign off on the design plans but the home owner can still pull the permits and do the work.

 

What do you guys mean by 'pull the permits'? Do you have to get permission from local govt? I owned a home in San Diego once and I just changed whatever I wanted

 

It just means requesting/applying for a permit.

 

Each city or county has a building department which enforces local building codes. "Pulling a permit " means that you have requested and been granted a permit to make change. In order to receive a permit design plans for the changes are submitted to and reviewed by the building department. Approved plan are then granted a permit to make changes. Once the work has been done the building department then send an inspector to insure compliance with building codes. If the work is done without a permit there is the possibility that you can be fined for violation of the building code.

 

In my experiences as a homeowner over the years, there can be an interesting gap between what work the municipality says needs a permit for and what previous homeowners have actually pulled permits for. My previous house was built in 1972 (I bought it in 2010), and it only had 2 permits on file when I queried: 1 for a wood stove and 1 for an extension off the kitchen. When I gutted the kitchen, let's just say I found some questionable electrical work (including 1 live circuit that was cut and left dangling in the wall; no caps, nada). Took me a couple extra days to completely rewire that kitchen to meet code.

 

I have remodeled several kitchens. I flip homes on the side and I usually buy in my county, outside of city limits as only county code applies.. Some cities have much stricter codes. In my county, you can do an entire kitchen remodel without permit as long as you don't move plumbing or electric. So, if you use the existing layout, you won't need a permit. Permitting process here is pretty simple and for small items, they usually pass on the first inspection.

 

I try to use the adaptive cruise control on the highway helping me with the efficiency and not to be the slowest car on the road, I also live in Massachusetts. I am getting about 3.2-3.2 miles per kWh this winter.


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Thanks for those explanations, re: permits. We would have to do that here for building work, especially involving plumbing. But electrical work just requires a licensed electrician, even to replace hard-wired lighting fixtures. Some lighting products are now sold with a line cord and plug already fitted so the homeowner can DIY it if a socket happens to be present, or one magically appears in the right place.

 

We live in British Columbia, and we got a grant from ZAP BC to partially pay for our level 2 charger. We had to get a permit from the Municipality before ZAP BC could install the charger.

 

1. With studded tires it’s a tank that won’t fail you. See attached pic for wife’s vehicle of choice (Kona even wins over our 2014 Sierra 4x4 w/ Nokian studded winters) for current shite weather the west coast of Canada is going thru. I actually had a 2011 F150 that I sold so I know where ur coming from. I’d consider getting a small utility trailer and a tow hitch attached if you still think you’ll do ‘dump runs’ etc. We are looking at adding a Yakima or Thule ski box to the rooftop as it will double the trunk capacity - and allow for trips to the ski hill. You almost describe B.C. living to a ‘T’. What region are you from?

2. We hav had no issues running straight from 120A wall plug on a daily basis from home. Soon to move but Level 2 charger is coming soon. If need be you can always find a local DC Level 3 charger for top-ups. You’ll put on about 10km/hr when plugged into a standard house plug.

3. We are averaging about a 15% loss in range between 0°C —> -15°C. That’s without a garage. Range is down ~25% from a cold start but quickly picks up once you start driving in the cold temps as thermal battery management system kicks in.

4. We Bought in August ‘19 and even got leather seats (‘Ultimate’ trim here in Canada) and the A/C handles with ease. Cooled seats are awesome. We have high temps in mid- to upper 30’s.

5. Hills are a draw for sure but Regenerative braking really helps. I probably use 80% less brakes as a result. Highway driving can also be a range zapper - no different than an ICE. Drive at 130 and you’ll quickly see gages drop. That being said we drove from Kamloops BC to Richmond BC via the mountain pass (Coquihalla) and did not. We’d to stop to charge. That was with 2 adults, 2 kids and overnight bags. Finished with 60km of range - drove a conservative 100km/hr whole way so that helped.


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