Clarity Speaker Quality

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by VTSAX, Feb 21, 2018.

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  1. Baekacaek

    Baekacaek New Member

    I'm also debating whether or not to replace the speakers. It does sound very muddy, but I have reservations about getting the door panels removed on a new car that not a lot of people know about. I also don't know if replacing the speakers without an aftermarket amp is worth it; but if I do get an amp, where would I put it? If you've replaced just the speakers without adding an amp, would you say the sound difference is good enough?

    I'd personally rate the sound system as 5/10. It's average
     
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  3. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member

    Hi,

    I just bought a new Clarity and love it with the exception of the speakers. I came from Acura and Bose and just miss the imaging and sound balance. Funny, the speaker "clarity" is not there in the Clarity... Crutchfield still does not have a guide for the Clarity panels. I looked at it and "think" I know how to remove them but some here actually HAVE done it. Would anyone who has, mind posting a brief description? Photos would be great, but know that takes time. I have Googled everything I can and no-one has put out any install info. The pillars look like you just pop the SRS emblem out (but do you remove it, or just pop it out?) and I am guessing just firmly pry the pillar out? The doors I am at a loss for. The switch panel pries up? There is some kind of hatch cover above the actual door speaker on the front doors? I have the 2018 Clarity Touring trim.

    Right now I am looking at replacing the factory speakers with these:
    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13699043/JL-Audio-C1-650.html


    Again, thank you for your time.

    Cash
     
  4. nvn

    nvn New Member

  5. insightman

    insightman Well-Known Member Subscriber

    As slim as that (no longer available) subwoofer is, it won't fit under Clarity seats. Because it would have to be mounted in the trunk your options are open to subwoofers of any shape and size.
     
  6. sniwallof

    sniwallof Active Member

    The worst part are three little steel clips near the door locks. They are very hard to pull apart and bend, and fall out on the floor. A dealer said that is par for the course, difficult for them too. Don't forget the big philips screw inside the removed door switch panel too.

    The plastic clips come out relatively easy, and I have not had any new sqeeks or rattles since the project. I think I made a later post, I ended up not liking the infinity speakers, the new ones, I think they were kicker, are much better.

    A subwoofer would definitely be helpful, but I think I'm stopping now, front tweeters, front woofers, and rear woofers (same as front), but not rear tweeters.
     
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  8. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member

    I originally ordered this Kenwood KSC-SW11 thinking I could fit it under a seat and no go. Seats are just to low. It would fit in the rear armrest, and I have seen that done before but hated the look and it prevents you from closing the armrest. Not closing the armrest is not a big deal until you want to fold the seats down. I am still researching what that little sensor is under the back deck in the trunk. The sales guys (and service guy) that honestly were not that versed in the vehicle in the first place said it was part of the side impact and stability sensor array. So, if that is the case then there may have been a reason (other than weight and price) that Honda didn't install a woofer back there as I would assume vibration on that deck could cause problems. This is all speculation - maybe someone here knows what it is (2018 Touring Model).

    I have always hated buried trunk subs, as they put more sound in the trunk (and rattle) than the cabin. However, not a lot of options here in the Clarity.

    I finally took the plunge after just deciding I didn't like the clarity speakers. The tweets are ok, kinda harsh sounding, but the mid bass drivers are so muddy at any volume that I decided it was time to upgrade them all. Man those are some tiny magnets on the door "woofers." Crutchfield first recommended the Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S as they are on sale and I do like RF products. As much as I liked the mid-bass drivers (I have heard them and still feel they would have been fine) I hate those tweeters, and they are physically a challenge to mount. I decided to go with the JL Audio C1 650 component sets for front and rear replacements. The tweeters fit perfectly in the front pillars. Removed the factory plastic mount and use the JL bracket kit, no crutchfield metal strap required, easy and look like they were OEM in fit/form. The tweeters in the rear door were a bit more brutal, as I had to cut out a lot of the mounting frame to high temp glue and silicone them in. You can't tell from inside the car and so it looks factory. The mid driver/woofers with the Crutchfield adapter frames were a breeze. As for sound, I am happy. The overall "clarity" is much better and the range is much wider in both response and un-distorted volume. I don't think there is much more that can be done on the low end without a real sub-woofer, but I am stopping here. If the factory unit had more RMS power available I might have chosen Focal ISS 165's, as I think that is about the top end for a non-amp "factory" system, but you really need a bit more power than the spec on the Clairity factory system. If someone has tried them chime in, they are good drivers and have a pretty flat response curve.

    The JL's are pretty efficient and the factory unit drives them well. It's a price point call, if you are not adding an amp and sound processor, spending $500+ on factory replacements has diminishing returns. But this is just my opinion. I bet someone has gone the RF 1675 route and can chime in - they probably sound fine and anything is better than those factory speakers.

    If you really wanted to get more out of the doors you could build a custom low resonance baffle and use lots of panel sound deadening - but if you are going that route you are probably adding amps, processor, and $500 a piece drivers - and enjoying the feeling of watching your range decrease as the volume increases! But we all have our priorities, and I was once there in my youth - at IASCA... ;-) (Hmmm, 17KW battery.... no - walk away...)

    The install was easy and everyone has already commented on the procedures and things to watch out for. I am including photos, not that it is anything special, but may help someone else. I am happy and it only took an afternoon once I got into it. Have to admit I freaked out a bit with all the errors after plugging the battery back in, then read the manual (have to order the real owners manual... $40K car and they deliver it with a "quick reference guide" ugh.)

    Cheers!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 3, 2018
  9. kcsunshine

    kcsunshine Active Member

    I'm not an audiophile and I thought the speakers were not that great. I know it is old school but I was disappointed there is no 3.5mm input. What if I want to play a video on a tablet with the audio through the speakers for the kids in the back? Is that possible with bt?
     
  10. L.L.

    L.L. New Member

    CA
    Compared with some previous Hondas/Acuras, the speakers in the Clarity is probably one of the worst I've heard in a while. The highs are there but the mid and lows are either missing or not very satisfying to the ears. Looking at the magnets, it's obvious why.

    For those that replaced the tweeters, did that also fix the rattles coming from the pillar/tweeter area in stock trim?
     
    Daniel M W likes this.
  11. Chris Messer

    Chris Messer Member

    So I orginally was listening to FM radio and though the sound was really bad. When I play something from Spotify through Android Auto it's perfectly fine. I found the FM radio to have pretty bad reception compared to other vehicles, but really, who cares anymore!
     
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  13. nvn

    nvn New Member

    being coming from the Lexus’s Mark Levington the Clarity sounds miserable. I was naively assumed Touring trim would equiped with premium audio system, i was so wrong.
    I’m so glad you mentioned the Kenwood KSC-SW11 I was thinking of ordering it. I wish auto audio system would include a Bluetooth hub like home theater receiver so you can link multiple speakers of any type you wanted.
     
  14. sniwallof

    sniwallof Active Member

    Completely opposite experience here, but we have good quality FM stations with transmitters not too distant, possibly the difference. Was noticing the other day how much better the classical FM radio sounded than anything on Sirius XM.

    Of course, you are correct, most owners don't care, that's why we get the audio / infotainment systems we get.
     
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  15. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member


    Not sure if someone responded but you can purchase 3.5mm Bluetooth adapters that are transmitters. These allow you to take any audio output from an device and stream it over bluetooth to the car. There may be some latency, but the kids may not notice. They vary in price and capability. Here is one I found on Amazon as an example but I HAVE NOT used it so please read the reviews.

    http://a.co/7dwmnaj

    What you ask is possible, just less than convenient. Good Luck! -Cash
     
  16. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member


    For me it did fix the rattles (in the A Pillars). The rattles I had were from the plastic facotry tweeter mounts that are plastimelt secured to the pillar frames. When I removed them and installed new tweeters with metal spring steel mounts the rattles went away. I still have a small rattle in the right door but it is extremely minor and I will fix it with foam tape at my next opportunity. I recommend when you do the replacements, don't spare the high temp hot glue or silicone. They are not structural for mounting (have something solid for retention) but are great for stomping out rattles.

    Cheers!
    Cash
     
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  17. nvn

    nvn New Member

    Cash,
    I finally broke down and decided to put a sub in the trunk. I'm thinking of custom a sub box to fit in the small compartment underneath the "Clarity" plastic tray. I'll need to tap to the rear speakers wires to connect to the amp which will be mounted under the front seat. Do you happen to have pictures/instructions how to access the rear speakers? Did you have to remove the door panel? Thanks
     
  18. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member


    Yes, you have to remove the door panels. It is not that difficult, pry up the control panel and remove the single Phillips screw. Then pop out the plastic retainers all around the panel. The REAL BEAST is the 3 metal retaining clips that are holding the panel against the door open handle. You have to push against the door handle (door latch) while pulling the whole panel out with a VERY slight twisting motion. Those things are in there tight and you may either break one of the clips, the plastic mounts or both. The door handle stays on the frame, you are separating the panel from the door handle and frame. However, for tapping the speaker leads you may be ok just going into the B pillar running trim wire bundle and pulling those out there versus from the door. I will say that upgrading the door speakers is worth it. Once you remove the factory mid drivers life is better.

    Photos attached. I also know that Crutchfield is working as quickly as they can to produce a master mod sheet for the Clarity they have some data now but are working on a full retro fit guide. Give them a call if you got your stuff from them, they have some guides.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes. Take photos! I am still interested in a sub, as although the C1's are MUCH better than OEM, I still miss my sub 120 hz.... ugh...

    Cash
     

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  19. nvn

    nvn New Member


    Great suggestion! accessing the B-pillars seem much less work than going inside the door. Any chance that you’re still remember the wires color code, especially the polarity?
     
  20. Cash Traylor

    Cash Traylor Well-Known Member

    Sorry, I just looked back through my photos and I can't tell. Since I used Crutchfield adapters I didn't pay that much attention to it at the time. Funny, I normally note such things. I would say this but it is not a sure thing. The switch panels (expecially the rear doors) are super easy to lift out. You could note those wire colors and then go by process of elimination. I remember they were standard in that if it was blue or pink, the other was blue with white stripe etc as a pair. The set running into the door should be pretty small (just the door lock, windows, and speakers). The rear doors have the speaker wire split between the driver and the tweeter, so there should only be one pair of wires in the bundle heading into the door. As for polarity, I "think" the solid was positive, but now sure. However, if you are installing an amp and woofer, then you can adjust the phase at the amp after doing a frequency response test post install. Most trunk installs benefit from a phase alignment anyway.

    Good luck!

    Cash
     
  21. JCEV

    JCEV Active Member

    The Canadian brochure says the following:
    The 180-watt audio system featuring 8 speakers and a subwoofer is primed to do your playlist justice.

    Is this a mistake or is there a subwoofer somewhere?
     
  22. loomis2

    loomis2 Well-Known Member

    If the Canadian Clarity's have a sub I am going to be pissed. (I doubt it, though)
     
  23. KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Yeah, it’s going to be hard to take if they get a sub woofer on top of the battery heater, switch to turn off the pedestrian alert, and wiper fluid low level warning.
     
    Daniel M W likes this.

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