12V battery

Discussion in 'Hyundai Kona Electric' started by electriceddy, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. Vince08

    Vince08 Member

    Sorry for hijacking this thread, but would appreciate if you could share the model of the replacement HID kit/LED bulbs. I am just confused by the hundreds of models available online.
     
  2. Cain

    Cain New Member

    That would be useful. With the widespread bush fires going on here they're saying that the grid might go down in our area (we're basically surrounded by fires). I'm seriously considering using the Kona with an inverter to provide backup house power. I have a little 1,000W inverter that can run lights etc at night, so I can save the generator for when I need to pump water.

    My plan is to turn on the ignition, leave it in P and plug in the inverter. I'll monitor battery voltage, but I am concerned about both cooking or draining the 12V battery.

    Could the logic behind the high voltage be a result of having the traction battery holding the voltage high so it feeds the loads on the 12V rail instead of the accessory battery? That's how grid tie inverters work, by supplying a slightly higher voltage.

    I'd welcome any suggestions for running an inverter for an extended period of time. Because if this works I'll probably get a larger capacity one as the Kona has a lot of energy stored.
     
  3. I have yet to commit but am looking at a HID kit for the low beams from Opt7 at the recommendation of a friend and yet to be determined brand of LED bulbs for the high beams. You can just go LED for both highs and low beams but generally speaking HIDs are brighter than LEDs but you probably don't want a HID in the high beam because of the brief warm up phase in HIDs that would be somewhat less effective when using your high beam to flash to pass or whatever. I believe its H7 bulbs for both. Philips makes very good LEDs , Morimoto is an excellent brand. Some things to consider: try not to be compelled by the cheapest ebay bulbs. If you go with the higher wattage examples fully expect it may not be 100% plug and play and you may need a relay kit, also keep in mind the low beam bulbs seem awkward to access through a port in your front wheel liner.
     
    Vince08 likes this.
  4. Here is a link to an entire thread discussing using the Kona as back up power.

    https://insideevsforum.com/communit...-a-backup-battery-for-home-power-outage.7392/

    Note you can use the utility mode to supply power continuously from the traction battery. The Kona can power continuously a 1200 watt inverter, above that the voltage starts to drop on the 12 volt battery output.
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  5. Well I guess its my turn with this 12V battery saga as I sit on hold for Hyundai roadside assistance listening to rather bad techno pop music for the past 40 minutes. Funny enough I installed a CTEK bluetooth battery monitor a few days ago. I got up this morning and it tells me battery is 5.8V and its -22C. I did not drive much this weekend just a short 4km trip to the market on Sunday about 12 hours ago and I had no warning otherwise. Of course heeding other folks warning I am well equipped with battery chargers and in fact I have a lithium charger in the glovebox.
    So I remove the mechanical key from the fob and the cylinder won't rotate for nothing. I suspect its frozen solid, tried heating, methyl hydrate and every other trick I know. I am locked out of my car and can't boost the dead 12v battery, nice. So here I wait listening to techno pop and am at least thankful this is not a major emergency,that its in my driveway and I can have a late start at work today. :)
     
    Wayne Warde and milesian like this.
  6. I monitor my 12 V with a meter usually once a month and leave the car sit in run mode for about 2 hours at least once every 2 weeks as the majority of my trips are short < 12 kms.
     
    BC-Doc and Wayne Warde like this.
  7. Wayne Warde

    Wayne Warde Active Member

    I really can't believe why Hyundai would put such a minimal battery in there new cars. The battery is only rated at 400 cold cranking amps which is a tiny little thing. I am glad that you have a lithium jump starter in your glove box. I too have a lithium booster in my car as well and I have had to use it more in this past year then I ever did with my older ice car. I have had this battery problem before Christmas and I still have a loaner battery in my car because the replacement battery is coming from South Korea. Not impressed!!!
     
  8. Its weird situation as I had a nice long 70km drive the day before, so it should have had a good loading charge and its had great resting voltages measured directly from the battery posts.The only thing unusual was when I hooked up the CTEK battery sense monitor last week it indicated despite good voltage levels that it had a capacity of only 6% left which I took with a grain of salt as I am not entirely sure how it can guess at capacity without a load test. I suppose its possible its been in a undercharged state since delivery 4 weeks ago but that would be weird given how much its been running. The other possibility could be the ctek bluetooth monitor itself or the bluetooth dongle for torque pro being parasitic loads. I am soft on the bluetooth dongle as the OBD port seems to turn the power off to it after the ignition is off.
     
    Wayne Warde likes this.
  9. ericy

    ericy Active Member

    Well, there is no starter motor, so you shouldn't need all that much. You really only need enough for the basic electronics (display, instrument cluster, and so forth) to power up.
     
  10. Wayne Warde

    Wayne Warde Active Member

    Yeah it's not as much as how much power the lithium battery has its more about how many times I have had to use it.
     
  11. OBD pin 9 is hot at all times, according to the docs. My small translucent blue ELM327 dongle carries on after vehicle power-off but switches off 30 min after last being queried. That's work great for logging charging events. My KW902 has a pushbutton power switch, unsure if it does auto-off.
     
  12. Good to know, thanks. I will have to unplug in future but remain skeptical it was direct cause. In meantime I rolled by my dealer and several hours later it is still sitting in the cold lot untouched, they claim only their certified EV tech can touch it despite me telling what the obvious problem are. Ok whatever, I suspect a lock thaw and boost is going to turn into a multi day repair. If that 12v battery stays outside much longer at 5v there is a good chance it will have permanent freeze damage but what do I know. Good thing the traction battery is charged and it's only -20C today as I suspect the battery heater and BMS are non functional without the 12v system being online.

    Sent from my SM-G955W using Inside EVs mobile app
     
  13. And enough to supply my fire place fan motor, and upon arriving home today the power went out so its nice to have a back up with my 100W inverter.
    Its a modified sine wave type so the motor runs a little slower but I have tested before for several hours and it works fine through the 12 V accessory outlet. I do leave the car in run mode when I do this as to recharge the 12 V battery.
     
    Wayne Warde likes this.
  14. SkookumPete

    SkookumPete Well-Known Member

    Speaking of charger events, can you point me to the PID for the present charging rate? I'm seeing only some cumulative values.
     
  15. It's this one:

    000_Battery Power,Energy Draw,0x220101,val{000_Battery Current}*val{000_Battery DC Voltage}/1000,-90,90,kW,7E4
     
    SkookumPete likes this.
  16. Heard back from the dealer, the 4 week old 12v battery is defective and they are replacing it, it is just going through a parasitic draw test now and I will hopefully have it back later today assuming no further complications.

    Sent from my SM-G955W using Inside EVs mobile app
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2020
    Wayne Warde likes this.
  17. Wayne Warde

    Wayne Warde Active Member

    These small batteries are really substandard quality.
     
  18. hobbit

    hobbit Active Member

  19. hobbit

    hobbit Active Member

    Aaaaand ... I've updated my own page on the 12V system in general, pulling
    together info from a lot of different places and referencing several of the
    threads from here and elsewhere that have gone into additional depth.

    Funny how on a complex EV with all the modern tech, one can spend useful
    time studying the inglorious low-voltage system. But it's the part of the car
    that seems to bite owners in the butt and leave them stranded most often.

    _H*
     
    davidtm and milesian like this.
  20. I logged some more extensive time today on the aux battery parameters with a 295 km round trip, 5 second logging interval. The bottom line is that the aux battery average voltage was 13.77 first leg, 13.55 return leg. The average aux battery current was -0.15 A and -0.35 A respectively, where negative is charging. Range was 13.1 to 15.0 and 13.0 to 15.0 V.

    Ignoring spikes, those don't seem to be wildly out of line. We need similar data from someone who has had the battery fail.

    I'm not exactly sure why the aux current was so much more excitable on the return trip but perhaps because I had the fan on much higher because it got warm then had to turn on the AC. Note, LDC current data has been doubled to keep the curve away from the others.
    Napier-Taupo Aux Battery.PNG Taupo-Napier Aux Battery.PNG
    FEF29F5C-06A7-4D23-9C02-5F0699D9AC86_1_105_c.jpeg
     
    hwitten likes this.

Share This Page