When will I see 47 miles EV?

Your answer could be : when you turn off the climate control. The electric heater is known to draw a significant amout of energy. If you have a light foot and are traveling uder 60mph, your battery will last longer. Also I have noticed that when i use the 110v level 1 cable rhat came with the car, the battery gets a better charge than when i use a rapid charger. The honda link app shows the state of charge very accurately.

 

Interesting - not my experience. I'm on the high end for EV range estimate (>50 so far this winter), and haven't seen this. For the first few months I used the L1 charge cable, have used an L2 EVSE for the past 6 months. All outside (no garage at home).

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40 to 50F definitely caused my car to go from 84km (rated at 76) to 60ish. In October when temps where around 50 to 60 I was getting 65 to 70. Now in Canada we have a battery heater so we can't control when that is used and a lot of small trips caused the mileage to go lower as the heat use always heaviest in the first 5 to 10 min

 

I have a few glitches with level 2 charge stations. I need to get the service bulletin and see if it helps. I was looking into it this morning. Its 18-097

 

There's two bulletins- similar in nature for public charging. The first fix for the 'system power' bug was 18-079. Although folks believe it worked, another bulletin came out a month later to fix the fix. 18-097 (not a typo- the update has the last two digits reversed).

After each, I 'feel' like my EV range went down. Sorry I don't have data to back this claim up, and I also went into winter temps at same time which we all know reduces range.

If I had it over to do, I might not of applied either. The car was working well before patching except that I couldn't use some public chargers-- which for me personally is an almost never event. I charge at home or at work period, and neither of those displayed a problem. I got the system power issue at a remote public charger (Crater Lake NP), which I only did because I wanted to do a long car trip with the new car.

i.e. if over to do, I might simply avoid even free public chargers on a long trip and just called it good. i.e. I could bring my level 1 charger with me if staying with family or whatever.

-Dan

 

You mention you use defrost. I never use it. That's worse than the heater because it runs both the heat AND the air conditioning simultaneously. Stop using it completely and see what happens. This might be the main source of your issue.

You mention no jack rabbit starts. You could still accelerate pretty briskly and not call it jack rabbit. For good EV mileage, acceleration should be similar to a bicycle.

The ideal cruising speed is about 30 mph as per the SAE paper on another thread, 20 or lower will use more juice.

If your car does turn out to have a bad battery, it might not have anything to do with its storage. Mine sat unsold for 6 months before I took it.

 

Thanks for your note David. The only climate I use is to press ‘front’ when windshield fogs up. I keep the heat setting at 68 or lower. As soon as I get the front window clear I turn climate off. Western Oregon’s wet climate requires some defrost or whatever it’s called that clears front window.
Also when I run it, I turn down the fan. Then once window clear, turn climate off.

Anyway be it as it may, I need do something to see out the window. And where I live no such thing as choosing not to do it.

But yes, useful to know if this is why my range seems relatively low.

I bought the car 9/25/18- temps were warm. No defrost needed then. Best ev range was 48 miles.

Dan

 

We are getting about 28-32 miles on a full charge in the cold here in Minnesota. I'm looking forward to the warm and better mileage.

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Exactly what I am seeing. And feeling.


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Its a shame not to use EV on the highway as long as you end up with EV at the end of the day- and no heat when its 20 degrees? Do you not turn on the heat in your house when it is 20 degrees outside? We want people to buy these cars- if they read people can't turn on the heat they won't sell.

 

You are not making sense to me.
Why should I use EV on the highway when it costs way more per mile than the gas engine? Even without adding heat.
I'll maximize EV when gas is back above $4 a gallon.
I'm only off the highway for typically maximum 15 minutes at a time and no heat is fine. If you want to use heat go ahead, but don't criticize others.

 

I believe it depends on your situation. It only costs me $.60 to fully charge our Clarity so we burn battery before gas.

 

Exactly. Same electricity for me costs over $3.

 

Man! Do you have off peak options?

 

Its a trivial discount.

 

Sorry to hear that. The differences in costs are fascinating.

 

I assume you have set your climate function to the button on the right so your normal airflow is to the windshield and your feet. This gives some constant fresh air to the windshield to reduce fogging if conditions aren't bad.

For these and other electric cars Ford's old "Instaclear" windshield would have been a great feature. If you're not familiar with this it worked like the lines on a rear window, but was a microscopic thin layer of gold laminated between windshield layers. Cleared fog off the windshield better than any fan/heat/AC combination with probably just a few hundred watts. But was quite expensive to build, and unfortunately occasionally exploded the windshield, but that was probably a QC issue.

 

I bought a touring 10 days ago. I was getting 38 on full charge driving on eco mode. This increased to 43 today. Why I am not getting 47 as I live in Houston which is not that cold. Is this normal behavior with new car ? Any relation with the bulletin update ? My car is Oct 2018 made.


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Can you give us some more info like speed, road conditions (city/hwy), temperature, driving style (lead foot vs sedate accel), how much heater/defroster, etc.?
And is that actual miles to 0m/2 bars or estimated on the display?
The most accurate measure of comparison will be how many miles you can go per kW but you have to have an EVSE that reports this or a Kilawatt hooked up to your Level 1 EVSE.

 

Dan:

It seems to me that you can get a good feel for the integrity of your battery by knowing how much energy you are putting in when charging. In my experience, a 'full' charge (charging from zero EV range) is always very close to 14.5 kWh. Do you have a charger that reports energy usage? If the capacity of the battery is bad, I believe it will not 'take' a full charge.

Thanks to this forum, I specifically asked the service manager when I bought the car to run the PDI battery test, and my result was good (55.1 Amp-hours). This equates to the 17 kWh rating using 310V as the traction battery voltage.