So I've really gone and screwed myself over this time. I had a minor accident and had taken my Clarity in to a body shop for some minor cosmetic repairs. Unfortunately, they apparently (at some point in the repair process) disconnected the battery long enough to trigger the infotainment's anti-theft power loss state. Even more unfortunately, my infotainment center — previously damaged in an unrelated incident — does not have a working touch digitizer, meaning my on-screen touch buttons are not functional, which made it exceedingly difficult to find a way to bypass the anti-theft screen, as the only way to do so was to use the non-functioning Audio power key. And lastly, and most unfortunately, in my quest to find a method to programmatically send the equivalent Code: keycode / Code: sendevent , I unwittingly thought to wipe the unit's Code: data partition in the hopes that it would reset the anti-theft feature's active state; however, not only did it fail to do so, I inadvertantly wiped my network configuration off the headunit...which also meant losing my wireless ADB authorization. And without access to the touch screen and nor ADB to send any additional inputs, I've basically gone and tossed out my only method of accessing the headunit at all now. I've done derped myself good! So I'm now back to sqare one (minus one). Any ideas what I should do? Besides biting the bullet and replacing the head unit altogether, that is? I'm already subscribed to most of the local yards so as soon as a Clarity gets junked around here, I'll jump on its carcass. Until then, I'm considering an aftermarket unit or something, but not sure if there'll be any unanticipated problems with that? Approaching from the other angle, is there perhaps any way I can still bypass the anti-theft mode? I had pretty much scoured and read through all of the unit's .kl / input device / keymaps / etc file contents and tried all of the keyevent codes I was able to find. The problem was I wasn't able to get it to work in deactivating the anti-theft mode, whether because the Code: power key event was some other non-standard input that differed from Code: keyevent 26 , or because I was unable to successfully emulate a longpress Code: sendevent correctly for the system to accept it (and being pre-Kitkat, the Code: input function does not yet include the Code: --longpress argument. Side notes: interestingly enough, I've found several system activities are able to bypass the anti-theft block and supercede focus on the screen. These include, but likely aren't limited to: the climate control module UI, the lane-watch module camera UI, and the contacts application UI (I can't recall if this was invoked by the standard Code: keyevent 207 or if there was a custom keyevent code off the top of my head). Unfortunately, it seems the former bypass method of accessing the system settings UI by first activating these screens appear to be patched out now (except for the Contacts UI as I did not think to test that at the time, and now no longer have the capability to do so).
@Arctiic , Over the years, it has been obvious that you are the ONLY one who has the level of knowledge here to delve into the depths of the OS and even begin to do anything at this level. As such I would surmise that it is hopeless for you to ask for this kind of advice here. If you can't solve it, then it probably can't be solved !! If I were you, I would seek a replacement head unit. It has been demonstrated that a head unit from a Touring can work on a Base and vice-versa. You mentioned looking for a Clarity in local yards... Good luck with that. I would go to eBay. There are a number currently listed ranging from around $200 to $450. There are even a couple of units listed as 'defective' for less than $100 and with your skills you could attempt to work with a defective one. At first, I didn't see them, but I found that searching for "Honda Clarity" Display worked best.
Okay guys, thanks for the advice and @Robert_Alabama thank you for the eBay links! Yes, I ended up purchasing one of the "defective" units and managed to get it working again after swapping the units. However, it seems my streak of bad luck just never lets up, as a few days later the headunit BSOD'd (black screened) on me and hasn't been able to boot up since then. Now, I'm inferring this new issue is unreleated to the HMU swap itself. I've been having electrical issues for a good while now, which I have yet to be able to identify the root cause of. Here are some of the issues that have been occurring: Condenser fan (passenger-side) runs very loudly, I'm told its running on max RPM's for some indeterminable reason Loss of driver assistance modules (RDMSP, ACCP, LKAS, CMSP); this was intermittent in the beginning and I was able to occassional resolve it by "jiggling" the front bumper around, but is now nearly always in error state nowadays...no issues with the sensors themselves and their covers are kept clean. The dash shows a total of four amber lights solidly on: the collision mitigation light, road departure light, ACC light, and LKAS light, and additionally a Brake System light as well (not sure whether it's directly releated or not) Occassional TPMS/Check engine lighting up despite no changes in tire pressure; resolves itself eventually Both 12V accessory power ports no longer function. First the front one went out, and then the fuse for the middle one kept popping after only a few days of use. I swapped the fuse for it several times, but eventually it seems both sockets just don't work at all now regardless of good fuses. I did read that this is a common issue for newer Hondas, and that I can simply purchase the assemblies (approximately $15 a piece) and swap them out, though I've a feeling the issues will continue on until addressed And now, the head unit black-screened on me. The unit is not hard-bricked, I can see the backlight comes on and the side touchscreen buttons light up; backing up will still trigger B-CAN to switch over to video feed (without the overlays/cam mode buttons), and LaneWatch button still elicits a response. The unit powercycles repeatedly at a set interval (every couple of minutes?) but stays on black screen and never reaches splash/boot logo. Unfortunately, this time around plugging in recovery drive with `recovery.sh` does not appear to help boot into reovery mode, nor does holding down VOL + - after power cycle. Oddly though, the climate control screen does not render onto the screen. I am still trying to figure things out, especially in troubleshooting the head unit. Particularly, I plan to try using ADB to boot into recovery to see if I can unbrick it that way, unfortunately the unit isn't establishing a connection wirelessly and I don't have a USB Type-A-to-Type-A cable on-hand (might just splice one myself shortly). By the way, does anyone know which fuse to pull to reset the infotainment system? Based on the fuse diagrams, I believe it's motor fusebox A fuse# 22 AUDIO? I read somewhere to pull the BACK UP fuse as well, but I'm not certain what for? I've also read yet a different post about pulling the Interior Light fuse as well during check? If these don't work, I'll try a terminal reset and also try sanding the negative post. Any further input or advice would be appreciated, thank you! PS: There should not be any issue with the 12V battery, as it was just recently replaced brand new by AAA (like a few months back).
All I can say is UGHHHH. With so many things wrong and no obvious relationship, I would be highly suspicious of the 12V 'system'. Your battery may indeed be 'good' but if there is something wrong with the charging system, it could be discharged below an operational threshold. The Clarity will discharge a perfectly good battery over time with parasitic current drain. That usually takes several weeks (with little driving), but if the LV charging system is not working right, it will discharge much more rapidly. What I would do is put a charger on the vehicle, and let it charge completely. I would measure the voltage on the fully charged battery with nothing turned on, then measure it again while you turn the car on to see that it holds up under the heavier load. See if some of these many problems go away when the battery is known to be fully charged (at least for a while). Your 12V accessory problem with the blowing fuses seems like a totally different problem which is much less important than the basic operation of the vehicle. The condenser fan noise also seems unrelated and less important than basic vehicle operation. It seems to me there was a thread here where someone else had that problem and had to replace the fan motor (bad bearing?). - WAIT, It was you in this thread: https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/loud-whirring-from-ac-compressor-fans.18521/ Again, with so much going on, you can't take anything for granted. Although unlikely, your 'brand new' battery could have failed. Doing some voltage checks could point you to the charging system (or the battery) after all.
I fully charged the 12V yesterday afternoon, but no luck. It read 14.4V at the time, and I tested the alternator both with and without load (it showed Pass for both). It was actually already close to fully charged anyway, and had switched over to float charging within 15 minutes of me plugging it in. I also took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the terminal contact points (as best as I was able to, anyway). I'm aware and have been concerned about parasitic drains, seeing as how I'm on my third battery (got the car in 2018), but I don't have a multimeter to even attempt to troubleshoot it. I've really got a gut feeling that there's a problem somewhere along the wiring harness downstream. I also took a look at where a lot of the ground wires gather and get bolted down to the chassis near the driver's left foot (behind the hood release latch's panel) and most of those terminal ends were pretty badly rusted. I cleaned them as best as I was able to (without having to unbolt it) with isopropyl and a brush. So unless anyone else has any ideas I on what else I can try, I'm getting the feeling I need to find myself a good...automotive electrician?? Or is it just a mechanic? How do I search specifically for one who specializes in electrical issues?
You might be stuck with the dreaded dealer on this one. It seems like a complicated problem and unfortunately very few have experience with Claritiy's.
The funny thing is, I actually did bring it into the dealer. It was among several other things I asked to have done, and they kind of just did everything else and pretended not to see any electrical issues. I didn't question it at the time, but should that be a red flag?
I work for a Honda dealer but I am not a technician. In my experience all the issues you are having point to a wiring harness issue. That can be caused by water intrusion or a critter chewing on the harness. Do you have any signs of a critter under the hood? Check the hood insulation by hitting it with your hand to see if anything comes out of it. Also pull your cabin filter and see if there are any signs in the blower area. They tend to make a nest in their most often. I live in the woods and have to deal with critters all the time. I installed electronic gizmos in both my and my wife's cars but they don't stop them. I pull my cabin filters once a month to make sure I don't have any signs of another critter moving in.
I had arrived to the same conclusion, but can't seem to find any diagrams/tech docs on troubleshooting it. I've checked everything immediately accessible under the hood, then under driver-side trim (ground bolt was rusty there, but cleaning and tightening back on didn't appear to fix anything), but beyond that I haven't found any comprehensive resource on the wiring harness layout or teardown/install guides. Can't afford the subscription at the moment, so I'm hoping to find a teardown video or the likes. I'll check first thing tomorrow, thanks for the tips!
