Repair issues and fixes

I would talk to my dealer. This even if it a just a nonsense for now, it should be looked at. Your car looks "new" 2022/2023? All components of the electric should be covered with the 8yr 160,000 km warranty.

 

Ferenc, have you checked your cell balance lately? And the BM2 graphs, if you have one installed?

 

No BM2 but 12V battery is seemingly, normal voltage. Cell balance is good but since a spell of daily high speed motoring (three months) and needing 100% charge each time, GOM only gives 390KMs at best and SOH is dropping regularly and is now 96%. @ 58,000 kms.
Will be doing 60,000 service soon and fruitless discussion with dealer kept ignorant by Hyundai.
Our summer temps have been between12 C at night to 30 C during the day.

 

Thank you for sharing your insights on the reliability of the Ioniq 5 compared to the earlier reports of issues with the Kona EV. It's reassuring to hear that there haven't been widespread reports of major powertrain failures with the Ioniq 5, especially considering its higher volume of deliveries.

It's unfortunate that some owners have encountered issues with the 12V battery and HVAC/battery cooling setup. However, it's not uncommon for new models to have some teething problems, and it's encouraging that these issues seem to be more manageable compared to the powertrain issues experienced with the Kona/Niro.

Overall, it appears that the powertrain of the Ioniq 5 is proving to be more reliable, which is a positive development for owners and prospective buyers alike. It's essential for manufacturers to continue improving and refining their electric vehicle technology to ensure long-term reliability and customer satisfaction.

Thank you again for sharing your observations, and here's hoping for continued reliability and success with the Ioniq 5.

For more info: https://www.torque360.co/

 

Issue: Preset radio stations on SiriusXM will not advance past the 1st preset and will only allow you to toggle stations in reverse to the 2nd preset.

Fix: After noticing that the 2nd preset was a Pit-Bull station that I do not recall adding to my favorites, I removed the preset (sorry Pit-Bull fans). After I removed the preset, I was able to toggle through my stations without issue. Seems like a software bug that it won't advance past the station if the station is no longer available on SiriusXM, but also kind of odd that it added the Pit-Bull station.

 

Question about gear reduction unit oil. I am letting the dealer change it at 120km so if the GRU fails there will not be a warranty hassle. Their quote specified "LM20012 Liquid Moly GL4+ gear oil 75w90 1 litre". Not pn 00232-1906-3. What do you think, forum members? This one is above my pay grade.

 

CV boot question: has anyone needed to replace one? My passenger side inner is a little damp, but not too bad yet. Dealer price on replacement is shocking, considering it will already be up on a lift for GRU oil change. I've done this job plenty of times on hondas and VWs, but I want to check the procedure especially withdrawing and reinstalling the axle from the GRU (on hondas it prys out and clicks back in). Anyone have the relevant pages in workshop manual? Thanks!

PS> Rock auto price on entire axle with both CVs is <$100Cdn!
PPS> It could also be a seal on the GRU, I'll have them check.

 

It more or less meets the spec in my owners manual: 70W, API GL-4, TCGO(MS517-14). I doubt the slight difference in viscosity is meaningful. Since this is the dealer's choice for oil, it's still under warranty, and I have not had any GRU noise I think I will take the chance on the liquid moly. Feel free to warn me if you think I am making a bad decision here.

 

That oil is a fair bit thicker than the 70W specified and the dealer should know better. Here are various oils for which I've graphed the viscosity range, including the OEM Hyundai 70W - the thinnest oil here. The Kona GRU tends to run around 45°C and there is a quite a big difference.

If you're in a very cold region use one of the lower five oils in the list. If in a mild region then any of the lower seven.

 

I contacted the service manager who caught the clerk's mistake. The car will have the correct DCT70W.

 

All the people here that have done research on the GRU have done a great service to Kona owners that are willing to find it. Read through almost all of it and have probably already forgotten most of what I've learned. Most importantly tho' thanks to this thread I'll book an oil change asap and do the magnets (sourcing the Votex DP007 plugs seems to be challenging in my part of Europe).

1) I've just bought a 2019 Kona EV with 94'000km on it, I'm way past preventing early damage and service history doesn't show any oil change. It is running pretty smooth now without any noticeable noise however so this unit might have avoided the misfortune of WoF. I hope I'll be able to convince the dealership to show me what's pouring out during the change and serve as another datapoint. (As expected the dealership advised to do a change only at 120k km, but didn't argue against if that's what I wish to pay for)

2) My battery seems to have been changed last year as part of the recall so the coolant should be good however I'm concerned about the it's colour... I was told at the dealership it's supposed to be green. Mine however is greenish orange/brown. I'm intending to have that changed too. I've requested a quote and the dealership will do both a coolant and GRU oil change with OEM liquids for 280€ (300USD/460AUD/410CAD) which sounds a bit steep for just a liquid change, but isn't much for ease of mind. They did however say that green coolant liquid is enough for Kona as opposed to Ioniq 5's more expensive liquid (mentioning something around 1k€ for it's coolant change). I've read somewhere to go with blue liquid, which I'm guessing is the expensive one for Ioniq 5, but the places I've read it are the same ones I've read people saying to stick with Hyundai prescribed 120k km GRU oil changes so they're not the most trust inducing.

tl;dr
Does anyone here have experience with the coolant being greenish-orange/brown? Should this immediately be changed to green? Is it worth it to cash out for blue? Am I totally missing something here?

 

I hate to say it, but the colour of that coolant reminds me of what would drain out of the rad from a ‘77 Lincoln I used to own…

 

It seems certain that you have been lucky enough to find one of the earliest examples before they changed to the blue coolant. All that's happened here is that when they replaced the battery they topped off the coolant with a yellow type like Zerex. The proof that it was originally not blue is that you were able to remove the reservoir cap easily. The blue coolant models have an icon of a mechanic on the cap with a reversed thread and a locking tab.

The standard Hyundai-branded coolant at the time was a conventional green type but they now use a pink variety. My coolant now is now red because they mixed pink with the original green when the battery was replaced.

As unattractive as it looks in brown I don't see that there's any technical problem. If the two types were incompatible it would be obvious by now. I'd suggest that you have the option of leaving it but fully understand that changing it gives more certainty, and I'd probably do that if it were my car. Afterwards it may take a few weeks for the level to settle, so grab a small bottle for toping-off, if they'll give you that.

I think the price is actually OK because it's a fairly lengthy job to flush it out as they have to use their Hyundai service computer to run both cooling pumps. There may still be traces of the brown present after they're done.

As for the gear reducer (and motor) there's certainly a good chance that they will be fine. Only a small number do fail, my best guess is under 1%. Check what oil they will use if it's not the Hyundai DCT 70W.

This magnetic plug will be easier to find.