BMS Improvement update D 10D042

Fingers crossed....

 

When the fire thing got a bit too real for Hyundai, I understand that they changed the BMS software to tell you it was charged to 100% when in reality it was closer to 90%.
If your battery was replaced or your battery was manufactured after March 2020, I wouldn't think you'd get this patch.

 

Has anyone in the U.S. seen this or any other software update in the past year?

If so, please share the info on the service order with me. I am sure there have been updates since my 2021 Kona was built in late 2020, but my service rep claims not. Perhaps they are low priority, so Hyundai isn't willing to do them on demand, just when the car happens to be in their grasp for other reasons.

Maybe I should take it in so they can look at my 12v charging system (it went dead again last night with the EVSE plugged in, as is typical for me) and tell me it's operating normally (and I suppose that is normal, unfortunately).

 

Hi Toolworker,
As I understand it, this service order would only apply to vehicles with a HV battery pack built prior to mid-March 2020 and then, only if the battery wasn't replaced under the D043 recall.
Hyundai seems to believe that all the HV battery packs built after that time were ok, so they haven't included them.

Any fix for your problem with the LV charger and/or 12v battery would be under another service or recall code. I can vaguely recall there was a software patch that included the LV system in late 2020. There were other ECU and BMS related patches in there as well (01D076 ?). Still, that might be before your car was built...
Cheers.

 

Just have done my annual inspection and the dealer has done the 10D042 BMS update. Didn't find much change. Will be good to have a true change log from the manufacturer.

Has verify the brake and other stuffs but not the gearbox. I will replace the fluid and add the magnetic screw really soon because i'm 42 000 km.

 

I thought the gearbox fluid change was only required much later than 42K. According to my manual anyway. Is there a good reason to replace it sooner?

 

An astute reader saved the above-mentioned video to another site just in time. This mention of dirty oil by a Hyundai technician is what kicked the whole thing off last year. He didn't investigate the reason for the black oil and assumes logically that the degradation was linear over kilometres driven, but we understand now that it turns black very quickly and stays that way indefinitely.

https://streamable.com/6320yp

The TL;DR version of the long thread on this subject is that the root cause is down to the ineffective internal magnet that Hyundai/Mobis/Transgear have installed to catch ferrous wear particles. Unless those are sequestered promptly and effectively they will turn the oil black and cause unnecessary added wear to bearings and gears. Ignoring it seems unlikely to trigger an actionable failure but evidence indicates that your Kona may run quieter. As I've mentioned before, it's like adding sand to your food - it won't kill you but eating is noisy and your teeth won't last as long.

So, ideally you should decide on a supplemental magnet solution. When that's ready to install then change the oil at that time. The oil type and quantity is listed in the owner's manual and the choice of magnet solutions are, in order of warranty friendliness (and perhaps cost):

(a) one or two Ø20mm x 5mm thick neodymium disk magnet attached to the outside of the gearbox drain / fill plug,
(b) a Toyota 90341-18057 magnetic plug,
(c) or a Votex DP007 magnetic plug (sold on Amazon)

You can do one plug or both. We don't have any proof that doing both is better but it can't be worse.

 

I really don't understand why this isn't a bigger issue for HYUNDAI - e.g., a Tech Bulletin and/or Service Campaign to have fluids changed out NOW, and a GOOD Magnetic Drain Plug swapped in. I already had my Reduction Gear Box REPLACED (3 months ago - 8,000 miles). The work order cost that out to over $2,300 !

What would it take to get their attention?

 

I'm curious. How does one "attach" magnets to existing drain plugs? And is the idea that external magnets have enough "pull" from a distance to isolate ferrous particles?

 

Thanks. Wow. I'm not sure how but I totally missed this thread. I had no idea there was so much back and forth about this oil issue. To be honest, as a very non-DIY guy, I find it sort of mindboggling. My plan is to have the oil changed on my new drive train in November during my winter tire swap. It'll be at around 5k then. Do you think this makes sense given that I have no intention of using a magnetic plug? Will it do any good at that point?

 

Some of the more recent contributions to the dirty oil discussion have been to find solutions that are more palatable to the average owner. It's clear from my interactions on several forums that many are nervous about the Votex, particularly regarding acceptance by their servicing dealer. Attaching an inexpensive magnet is certainly the most benign and easiest option with encouraging indications of being effective. Further to @navguy12's pioneering efforts, a soon-to-be Aussie owner over at HyundaiKonaForum measured magnetic field strength and found (4) x ø20x5 neodymium easily bettered the Votex. A US owner will soon be carrying out some bench test comparisons of the external magnet stack v.s. the Votex in agitated oil, similar to the static test in the photo below.

Clean oil is always helpful but adding a magnet at the same time will keep it clean longer. The magnet just sticks to the stock steel plug.

 

I have a Lee Valley Tools just down the road so I guess I could pick up a few magnets and ask the dealership to slap them on during the oil change. I guess they can't really object. External magnets wouldn't be anymore dangerous than a hide-a-key really.

 

Do you fasten them somehow to make sure they dont get jarred loose (I know they are magnets and stick magnetically, but something could fly up and hit them off)

 

As stated above, Navyguy used 3M tape. I think the other folks just magnetically stacked them on the bolt.

 

Can I use the 1/2" ones in a four-stack? The 3/4 inch ones are 7x more expensive.