Most distance travels in BC will be well out of reach of 'service' in case of a flat. I do plan to carry a repair kit as insurance to never needing it but if I do need to use it I want to be prepared in case the wheel has to be removed, hence want to know the jack points and if pads are available/required. A donut spare tire would be really nice too, even if it just travels as cargo during extended trips. I know that I'm probably fussing about nothing but I prefer to be prepared for as much as possible as there will always be something unknown to bite you in the a..s I did look underneath and found candidates to be jack points with a pad I'm guessing. Of course that adds to the dilemma... where to get the pads.
There are commercial jack pads but honestly a section of 2x2 or 2x4 lumber will do just fine. As for a donut this thread might be helpful. https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/has-anyone-else-tried-this.7607/
I did that on my Santa Fe, took the weight off the sharp edge, but looking at the EV it doesn't quite seem the same. The edge is much higher. Not sure if the weight is supposed to be ON the edge or on each side with weight actually on frame.
It just seems weird to have all that weight on the skinny edge. Guess stronger than it looks. There are 2 indents. Guess they are the position holders. Thanks for the pics.
You shouldn't really be *on* the pinch weld, it could bend over or spread open especially as inevitable corrosion sets in. There's a lot of high-strength meat on either side of it. A "puck" with a deep slot would be safest and add height, but there's no harm in jacking right next to the weld -- I went just inboard of it, I think. I'd shy away from small bits of wood, they can split under load. _H*
Thanks hobbit. Now to find a puck and a scissor jack for trunk with 3/4 inch slot. Makes more sense to me now, knowing that it's actually the areas next to the pinch weld that is the jack point. Took some pics to help me see the light. I know I'm overthinking this, but... http://tinyurl.com/te9cfkj
It would be nice if the jack points were unambiguously painted a different color, and this would really apply to all car models.
I don't chase tinyurls: what's the reference? Another illustration of doin' it wrong is right in the forums here: . https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/underbody.7150/ the pads on the yellow lift are right across the welds; sloppy shop techs do this all the time and tell you it's fine if you ask, but it isn't. They're not interested in long-term mechanical subtleties. _H*
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CNK3XKD/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I ordered one of these for my floor jack. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CNK3XKD/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The puck look just fine, if it fits the jack. The edge of the seam in between the notches as you noted is the intended jacking point, for use with a compliant lifting pad. I've used a length of ~65mm ID reinforced silicone rubber tubing cut in half lengthways on prior cars with the same type of lift point to soften the contact area with the small floor jack. It's thin enough so that the seam still locates safely in between the teeth on the jack pad yet tough enough not to tear. Even though a block of wood will nicely distribute the load, instability due to the thickness and risk of splitting is too dangerous for my liking. My plan will be to use two floor jacks to evenly lift one side of the car in turn so the that wheels can be swapped. Hyundai really have provided nothing to accommodate the DIY owner, unfortunately. If in any doubt, have the dealer do whatever work you need doing.
I am sure it will fit the pinched weld. What you have to watch is to make sure it fits your floor jack. Several different sizes, so measure carefully. I should get it in about a week or so, and will report back.