I did a cursory search but didn’t see anything that sounded quite like what I started experiencing recently. I’m about 2-2.5 months into ownership of my ‘19 Clarity and over the past week or so my ICE has engaged at times that don’t seem to line up with any need. It hadn’t been so long since the last time it was on that it would need to run a systems check and I didn’t white-line it. This leaves energy bleed-off on a full-battery and, while this has been a likely explanation on a few occasions, there have been multiple instances where the SoC is 1-3 bars below full and it still engages. Sometimes it’ll engage while braking and sometimes while accelerating. If I had to made an uneducated guess I would say it seems like the computer is confused. The pattern I’m seeing is that the ICE is engaging (somewhat eagerly I’d argue) to bleed off regen power shortly after starting city driving on a full charge. Like if I hit 2 or 3 red lights, it’ll kick in while braking. It feels a lot more sensitive to this than it’s ever been. The issue beyond this though is that it’ll continue to engage the ICE repeatedly for the remainder of whatever drive I’m doing (regardless of mode) sometimes while braking, sometimes while accelerating, and in many cases for extremely brief periods of time (if I’m trusting the EV indicator on my cluster, for as little as a few seconds sometimes). It almost seems to be behaving like it’s in HV Mode except it’s showing a white power gauge the whole time (whether the EV indicator is on or not it doesn’t seem to change when it’s behaving like this). I’ve heard of and witnessed the power gauge colour issue in other circumstances too so this could be unrelated.
I'm having pretty much the same issue. I'm taking the car to the dealer Monday. I'll let you know the results.
I am not 100% sure, but I do believe that this issue has been discussed. Also, not 100% sure but you cannot query a topic and this website and pull up all replies relating the topic. I wish you could.
There is a reasonably good search function. The area for search entries is immediately left of your user name along the top the web site.
When I charge to 80-90%, I've never had the ICE come on incorrectly. With a full charge, yes, as soon as I hit the brakes harder than normal. I typically charge to 80% for battery longevity so this is not generally a problem for me.
2 pieces of advice: 1. Make your paragraphs shorter but more frequent on these forums. It holds the reader's attention better with the paragraph breaks. 2. Try charging to only 90% and see if this goes away. You may be in a full battery/over charge circle that the car can not get out of.
The dealer installed "The 2018 Clarity Plug in Hybrid Driver Display Software Update." No identifying numbers given. It did solve the stuck HV range display. But they said during their test drive the the ICE engagement after passing the detent was shutting off properly. I left the dealership with approximately a 19 mile EV range As I left the dealership I pushed the pedal past the detent and the ICE engaged but did not shut off when I let off the pedal. I was travelling approximately 30 MPH. I shut off the car, restarted and the ICE was not running. On the freeway at approximately 65 MPH I again pushed the pedal past the detent and the ICE engaged but it shut off quickly after I returned the pedal to the pre detent position. I tried it several times and it always **** off quickly. When I got off the freeway I went through the drill again at about 30 MPH. The ICE did not shut off. I find it hard to believe this is SOP for this car. Anyone else have a similar experience? Tim
My experience is dissimilar but here it is. In 1yr/8500 m of ownership, the ICE has never come on and then turned immediately off when it was not recently started (as in cold and not run in HV). It always runs for a few minutes and then turns off no matter what the reason for it coming on (detent, no regen/full battery, System Check). I assume this is programmed to make sure the engine warms up. And it’s never failed to turn it self off after a short time. I have no idea why some of us get such different experiences when we have the same hardware and software. (Other than if some restarted to turn off the ICE before a System Check was completed.)
You assume right and the reason for making it warmup is twofold: emissions and fuel economy; both are at their optimum on a fully warmed engine. There are other benefits too.
My experience has been that the ice will shut off and on once it reaches 140F and shut off for good once it reaches 177F. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
I’m pretty sure Engine Coolant Temp is an SAE standard PID so any OBD II sensor should be able to read it. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
But not while you are driving. It would require you to pull over shut off the and car hook up the OBD II reader. How do you know the ICE shuts off at 140F and shuts off for good at 177F? Please tell us where you obtained that information. Thanks. Tim
Ken, I've driven 30 miles on the freeway in EV mode (outside temperature low 30s) and the Ice never came on. Why would the ICE need to warm up if you weren't using it in EV mode?
My point was that it seems to be programmed to stay on until it reaches operating temp and that any machinations to try and turn if off are counterproductive. Mine always turns off in a few minutes. It did stay off for me all winter in EV probably because I precondition and use the heater very sparingly. The very few times it came on in the last year in EV were for what I assume is the System Check now that I’ve learned how to avoid the limited regen, ICE start to prevent overcharging after a full charge scenario. Is that what you were asking?
You can get instantaneous readings via Bluetooth/WiFi connected app (ScanTool, BlueDriver) or ScanGauge (display screen) etc. You plug them in and leave them in and it updates while you are driving. Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs