Sounds like they don't know how to properly install the update. But they are giving you a new EV battery? That's a first.
I don't have the car back yet. I *assume* it is fixed (and SOC went from 17% to 18%, so maybe they did charge it a little bit). There is a 24kW Harley dealer a mile down the road - that will probably be my 1st stop, so I can verify charging functionality before I get too far down the road. The service manager said they would put the thing on a charger for the weekend. According to BlueLink, it is not charging now, and the service department is closed on Sundays. So they managed to "meet" my expectations.
Possibly the first with a cell deviation higher than 1 V or a failure of the insulation resistance (less than 300K ohm). Maybe a blessing in disguise https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/seeing-reports-of-a-kona-recall-in-form-of-software-update.8713/page-5#post-101075 and https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/seeing-reports-of-a-kona-recall-in-form-of-software-update.8713/page-6#post-101296
Interesting, that could be the reason. However I had asked them if they got any error codes that triggered the error, but they said there was none. So I wonder if hyundai just assumed that was the case.
So glad that the dealer did this update before I purchased my used Kona. I also like that I can see the history of what has been done to the vehicle as far as recalls go.
Considering that they sold over 100k Kona Electrics worldwide.. 2 or 3 bad batteries doesn't scare me.. You have a higher chance that your Kona Electric explodes than to have a bad battery...
Car was put on the charger at 7:30 this morning. Up to 35% now, which is more than enough to get home. If they needed to stop the charge to open up a service bay, it wouldn't bug me at all. Plus, it clearly demonstrates that the BMS issue is fixed.. We will swing by at lunchtime to pick it up.
The dealer called and said the car was continuing to throw faults while charging. The codes that they could read suggested that one of the battery cells was out of spec. At the moment, we are waiting for Hyundai Tech to decide what to do, but I may be getting a new battery. I would note that none of the scan tools that I tried are able to read fault codes from the BMS. I had run SoulEVSpy last Saturday, but didn't take a screenshot. I can look through the logs to see whether it recorded the cell voltages.
120 mv , just squeaked in. If this turns out to be the second battery replacement, perhaps a new thread (or rename this one to include HV Battery replacement) is in order.
To rename the thread, I think will need to get a mod to help. I will wait to see what Hyundai decides before I ask about that. Hyundai wanted the dealer to inspect the charger that came with the car, which I very rarely use. So I brought it to them - mainly just so they can cross it off the list. Basically they were wondering if the fault was because of something wrong with the EVSE and not the car itself. But they can repro the problem with their charger. I suspect that with the new BMS update, that it checks for cells that are out of spec before it lets you charge. From the way they talked, they sort of implied that this was the case, but I am not 100% sure. I wonder if a failed battery cell 6 months from now would also cause an inability to charge. I would note that I didn't color that one cell red - that was SoulEVSpy that did that for me. I haven't charged to 100% in months. I don't what effect a BMS balancing of the battery pack would have. Perhaps one lesson here is that if you have TorquePro of SouEVSpy, you might want to check the cells before going in for a BMS update.
Yeah, perhaps it pays to do 100% more frequently rather than just when you go under 20% as specified in the manual. I've let it go for 6 months and have one "cell" persistently 0.02-0.04 down. The sensor resolution is only 0.02 so it can't be a big deal. We have not understood at all what the BMS update does to alert the owner in the case where it finds limits exceeded during its periodic checks. Just refusing to charge seems a bit vague.
I haven't seen in the manual where it says to charge to 100% when you go below 20%, can you tell me what page that is on?
H5 in the global (top) manual which is relevant to my location. The N-A manual (bottom) seems to ignore the issue.
20 mv differential is more than acceptable. A differential of 120 mv seems a little low as in ericy example above to trigger a no charge condition however at least the software is doing what was intended. I would prefer to have some more middle ground say 50 mv causes an error code or something to that effect allowing the owner to have the pack checked, but doesn't leave you stranded. On the upside at least Hyundai is dealing with it, something Nissan did not acknowledge as being an issue until 300 mv or more based on my previous experience.