Jacking instructions for tire rotation/changing?

From speakev forum

 

Looks like the lift points are on the flat frame portion behind the pinch welds. Again this was from the speakev forum, please credit the original poster rbilodeau
for the pictures

 

There's enough frame "meat" next to the pinch welds that a jack can center to
one side of the weld or the other, esp. if it doesn't have the suitable slotted
fitting to straddle the weld but still push up on either side of it and not on
the edge of the weld itself.

I have fit a generic scissor jack and a backup jackstand in next to each
other with safe purchase on both, without endangering the battery
framework.

_H*

 

I just switched to winter tires using those jacking points and it worked perfectly. I also used the "puck-like" products from Amazon and felt better knowing I wasn't scratching anything. I bought a 3-ton jack from Costco (https://www.costco.ca/arcan-3-ton-professional-grade-hybrid-service-jack.product.100317470.html) for the job and it was great.

 

While looking up where to place the jack, I found some images showing how to jack the entire front end, or back end. However, as I'm inexperienced with this, and with an electric car, I chose the safe option and changed one tire at a time. It took about an hour, all said and done. There was a bit of an investment initially, with the jack, a good torque wrench, breaker bar, and some other small items. But with 3 cars in our household now, it was a small investment compared to paying to have tires switched over twice a year. Plus, I can do it when I choose rather than having to try and get the car booked in at the same time as everyone else.

 

I used a small trolley (floor) jack to lift each corner in turn, for a inspection. The car lifts easily at the indicated jacking points, not nearly as heavy as I thought it would be.
Everything is clean (12,000 km) and brakes are barely touched even though I normally use only the pedal. Glad to see that the rim hub is correctly fitted with vents to both the hub center and the casting pockets so water gets drained. The rear brake was just as clean.

 

Please help me understand what the correct jacking scheme is... Is the actual pinch-weld edge used for lifting, between the notches, and the hockey puck with grove is just there to give better support?
...or is the hockey puck slot/groove supposed to be deep enough that actual support/lifting takes place not on the pinch-weld edge but rather adjoining the edge on the frame?

 

The edge of the flange in between the two notches is what is intended to take the load, or "pinch weld" as it seems to be colloquially known. The pad on a trolley jack (floor jack, forgot who uses which term) will grasp that safely (if centered) but the puck seems to be someone's idea of how to protect the flange from minor deformation. I saw these first used on BMWs because if I recall there are no DIY jacking points. Because we're a number 8 wire country in NZ we can't find such fluffy accessories locally so I just use a tough material in between to minimise scratches, but thin enough so that the car's flange locates inside the jack's notches. Thick leather would be ideal. The puck is not intended to take the load to the sheet metal as far as I'm aware. Have a look at the Hyundai image above. The lift shown has flat pads.

 

The flat pad is what's confusing me, I think. My Santa Fe had a similar pinched weld but not nearly as high so I made some pads out of 2x4 to put the weight on the frame instead of the edge itself. Maybe I didn't need to.
So to recap... it is perfectly ok to jack on the pinch-weld edge as long as it's between the notches?

 

That is for the petrol version, not the EV

 

From 0:40

 

Lifting the Kona to remove a wheel is a piece of cake. The pad I used is a piece of reinforced silicone rubber but is not needed. Most important is that the car's flange sits inside the jack's teeth.