Remote climate and window fogging

I do not believe that there is anything you can do (as in choosing any climate control settings before you turn off the car) that will affect the preconditioning other than turning it on and off manually or by scheduling.
The algorithm will select what it’s programmed to do regardless of what you want it to do and will not even occur or unless the outside and inside temperatures are within its programmed range.
Other than choosing on, off, or schedule, Honda keeps us completely out of the loop on preconditioning.

 

I haven't tried remote conditioning in the winter yet, but in the summer I can confirm that in manual mode at least, if the AC is "off" when I leave the car, it doesn't remote cool (well, I think it runs the fan, but the compressor doesn't run so that does nothing). It doesn't matter what the temperature setting is, that part is automatically overridden for remote climate, but the AC must be "on". I consider this a very annoying bug, because it's usually cool and dry in the mornings so no need for AC, but hot in the afternoon.

You're leaving the car with the AC manually "on", right? I wouldn't be surpised if the issue there is that it decides that even though the compressor was on, it needs heat not cooling so doesn't turn the compressor on. I wonder if setting "Auto" would help? I don't like automatic fan blasting and want to decide when the AC is on or off most of the time, so don't use the "Auto" mode.

From what I can tell, pressing front defrost automatically turns on the compressor, but setting the climate screen's floor+defrost button does not and results in windshield still fogging until I press AC on.

Have I said that the climate controls are the one thing I really dislike? I'd much rather have actual buttons to quickly select the airflow, fan, temp, and AC than the stupid climate screen, and it would be awesome if the remote conditioning allowed you to select at least temp and AC on/off.

 

I had the same issue with foggy windows but only with temperatures below 40 degrees. See my previous reply a few months ago about the settings I use now that practically eliminates fogging except for one situation: when passengers have wet hair I have to use the window defrost buttons (with outside air circulation selected) to get immediate defogging.

 

TomL previous post:
This is our first winter with a 2018 Clarity Touring model in WI and we have found it takes longer to heat the interior than other vehicles we have owned. We often had to turn the temperature up to 80+ and it still seemed to take too long to warm the car. We finally used trial and error experimentation to find the most efficient way to heat the interior. With outside temperatures ranging from 3 to 30 degrees and the car parked in an unheated attached garage, here is the formula that gives us the most efficient heating so far this winter:

1. Precondition the vehicle. This is the most important factor in the list. 15 minutes is more than enough.

2. Set temperature to your personal preference. For us it starts at 70 degrees and we often reduce it after 15 minutes.

3. Turn off the green lit “auto” setting in the driver side temperature control button.

4. Set vent mode to defrost/floor.

5. Select button for “fresh air” setting. Using the “recirculation” option increases window fogging.

6. Set fan speed to your personal preference. For us, it is the second lowest setting but a higher speed might be needed if there are passengers in the back seat. Preferential fan speed is also affected by where you the direct air flow from your air vents.

7. Use front and rear window defrosters as needed. This need will vary with the number of passengers humidifying the air with respiration, whether anyone has wet hair from showering (a major factor in window fogging), and the temperature/dryness of outside weather conditions. Most days we’ve only needed defogging briefly if at all.

8. So far we have not felt the need to use the seat heaters, but that could change with subzero temperatures.

Given this formula, you might ask how it affects the EV mileage estimate. So far this winter we typically start with about 32 EV miles after Level 2 charging. Using the trip odometer for our usual daily driving circuit of 40-50 miles, our actual obtained EV miles have ranged a lot. The worst we did was lose 4-5 miles, but we often gained 1-2 miles. As is often reported in this forum, EV miles obtained will vary with mph, road conditions, weather conditions, feathering acceleration and other idiosyncratic factors among drivers.

 

As KentuckyKen said, Clarity makes its own decisions: Some days preheating fogs the windows, others it does not. Sometimes preheating includes AC and sometimes it does not. Sometimes preheating uses the floor vents and no others and sometimes it uses other vents or combinations of vents. The only thing I know for certain is that, if I turn off Climate before shutting down the car, preheating will not work the next morning. Next up I'm going to try leaving climate control in "auto" mode when I shut down...

 

You can "over ride" the fact you left your Climate controls set to off manually. Press the lock button on your key fob followed by holding down the fan symbol until the car lights flash once, then three times - then release. They should flash three more times. The preheating feature will activate.

 

Hmm. Independent minded vehicular conveyance. No wonder our Missus Clarity has taken so well to this car.

 

I've turned off the climate system and then tried to activate using both the app and the fob - and neither has worked. With the fob, once the car flashes three times it does not flash another three times.

 

Are you doing this while plugged in to 110v, 240v, or not at all? I had the same thing happening. Plugged into 110v it will not turn on no matter what. 220v or not plugged in it will turn on.

 

I've never used the 110/120 cable - I have a 30A 240V EVSE mounted on the wall of my garage.