Modifications and Tweaks

Discussion in 'Hyundai Kona Electric' started by electriceddy, Mar 10, 2019.

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  1. I find without the ACTIVE feature applied it reacts like the first original arcade game- Pong
     
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  3. Maybe there was a copyright issue, LKA Active = LFA, otherwise LKA is the same worldwide.
     
  4. cmwade77

    cmwade77 Active Member

    Well it is also a California model, so it is entirely possible we have our own requirements, we do for everything else.
     
  5. Tried today :)
    Could not get the connector loose. Fingers too Phat it seems. Going to try again another day.
     
  6. Its in there pretty tight, but if you rock it side to side while pressing the tab it comes out pretty easily, also goes back in easier that way as well.
     
    mho likes this.
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  8. Tried again... no luck yet :(
    Just to confirm, the release tab on bottom gets pushed against the connector body?
     
  9. This is what it looks like close up. Squeeze against the plug body and wiggle. Of course I haven't done this myself ...!

    upload_2020-8-12_16-26-13.png
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  10. Thank you. Confirms my thinking. Sure is tight in there... plug and space :)
     
  11. That is the part I squeeze with my right thumb while pulling the harness/connector from side to side. I do scrape a knuckle a bit on the fuses but with a glove on it would make things a lot more difficult. To reinstall after the lead soldering, I turn my hand around and push it back in while feeling the socket as a guide. Just went out and tried it ... no problem.;)
     
    hwitten likes this.
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  13. Vince08

    Vince08 Member

    I discovered a cheap and simple sound isolation solution by accident. I ordered a windshield sealing strip to conceal some wiring running inside the dashboard gap. I then proceeded to install it and didn’t think much about it. As usual I would drive with my windows closed inside my basement carpark but suddenly I could barely hear the VESS. I thought I had accidentally switched the VESS off. It only occurred to me later that the rubber strip has effectively isolated most external noises that comes in into the cabin through the dashboard gap from the firewall.

    I attach links to two typical advertisements I see online (slightly different design). Online price seems to vary wildly but I bought mine from a local online shop at a fraction of the price shown on Ebay or Aliexpress...including shipping.

    So low cost solution yet effective. Pleasantly surprised.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/63-Rubber-Soundproof-Dustproof-Sealing-Strip-For-Auto-Car-Dashboard-Windshield/333470009665?hash=item4da45c8941:g:mvsAAOSwqzFeFJvL

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Anti-dust-Sealing-Strip-Seal-Car-Dashboard-Stickers-For-Universal-Auto-CAR/263824416230?hash=item3d6d291de6:g:GagAAOSwkE9bUDnB

    (disclaimer - I did not buy mine from the two links shown)
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2020
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  14. Yeah it pretty tight, last time I was in there it was easier to loosen the front bumper fascia. I just took the 3 bolts at the rad support off and single screw and 2 plastic fasteners at each front wheel well, you can then just gently pull on each corner of the bumper free if its body support fastener and it will slip forward. I left the bottom bumper fascia fasteners in place as I didn't want to remove the bumper completely just moved it forward enough to get the hands in at a better angle.
     
  15. Well... the more lack of success the more determined this ol' fart got. It took a headlamp, long screwdriver, plastic tool and being somewhat of a contortionist to finally get the plug out.
    Now for the mod. Please see the attached image to confirm I have it right. /Thank you.
     

    Attached Files:

    navguy12, KiwiME and electriceddy like this.
  16. Almost there... according to this diagram:
    https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/turn-off-vess-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/#post-67494

    Pin 7 (tab side counting left from plug) is green and correct, I have not metered out the ground on pin 12 (black), but it should work. I grounded mine to the chassis. (through the switched 200 ohm resistor of course) ;)
     
    mho likes this.
  17. Wrong connector, hwitten is referring to the one to the switch assy left under the dash. Both however are equally hard to get to. But if you have easy access to the connector behind the rad, you would use pin 3 (also green) and run a wire to the cabin to pick up the switch and resistor:
    [​IMG]
    Thanks to mikeselectricstuff for this similar diagram.
     
    apu likes this.
  18. You'll note that the schematic is simplified and omits the resistor in series with the switch.
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  19. Ah, thanks for the correction.
     
  20. mho likes this.
  21. The deed is done... checked pin 12 to make sure it went to ground. Used "T" connectors to tap into green(7) and black(12). Built a little harness that had switch on one end, insulated spade connectors on the other with a 220 ohm resistor soldered into one wire and shrink-wrapped. Spade connectors plugged into "T" connectors. All good. No holes needed. Works great. VSS is powered on at each start. Press button, silence. Press again and VSS active again.
    Was not quite as easy-peasy as anticipated due to the close quarters and phat hands but at the end it all worked out. Actually better than when I first posted the question because it is now on by default until I'm in a place where silence is golden.
    Great forum co-operation. Thank you all.
    IMG_5321.jpeg IMG_5326.jpeg IMG_0009.jpeg
     
    mho, Domenick, navguy12 and 2 others like this.
  22. I knew you could do it, if I can get my Dupuytrens Contracture six time operation - (going on 7) hands in there then anyone can. Neat job, and if I did it again I would make use of those tap connectors:)
     
  23. navguy12

    navguy12 Well-Known Member

    That momentary switch you used, do you have a link to that...or is it an over the counter item at Napa/CT/Home Depot?

    Slogging thru Google is only giving me examples of short length units with back lighting. Thanks.
     

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