Well it is also a California model, so it is entirely possible we have our own requirements, we do for everything else.
Tried today Could not get the connector loose. Fingers too Phat it seems. Going to try again another day.
Its in there pretty tight, but if you rock it side to side while pressing the tab it comes out pretty easily, also goes back in easier that way as well.
Tried again... no luck yet Just to confirm, the release tab on bottom gets pushed against the connector body?
This is what it looks like close up. Squeeze against the plug body and wiggle. Of course I haven't done this myself ...!
That is the part I squeeze with my right thumb while pulling the harness/connector from side to side. I do scrape a knuckle a bit on the fuses but with a glove on it would make things a lot more difficult. To reinstall after the lead soldering, I turn my hand around and push it back in while feeling the socket as a guide. Just went out and tried it ... no problem.
I discovered a cheap and simple sound isolation solution by accident. I ordered a windshield sealing strip to conceal some wiring running inside the dashboard gap. I then proceeded to install it and didn’t think much about it. As usual I would drive with my windows closed inside my basement carpark but suddenly I could barely hear the VESS. I thought I had accidentally switched the VESS off. It only occurred to me later that the rubber strip has effectively isolated most external noises that comes in into the cabin through the dashboard gap from the firewall. I attach links to two typical advertisements I see online (slightly different design). Online price seems to vary wildly but I bought mine from a local online shop at a fraction of the price shown on Ebay or Aliexpress...including shipping. So low cost solution yet effective. Pleasantly surprised. https://www.ebay.com/itm/63-Rubber-Soundproof-Dustproof-Sealing-Strip-For-Auto-Car-Dashboard-Windshield/333470009665?hash=item4da45c8941:g:mvsAAOSwqzFeFJvL https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Anti-dust-Sealing-Strip-Seal-Car-Dashboard-Stickers-For-Universal-Auto-CAR/263824416230?hash=item3d6d291de6:g:GagAAOSwkE9bUDnB (disclaimer - I did not buy mine from the two links shown)
Yeah it pretty tight, last time I was in there it was easier to loosen the front bumper fascia. I just took the 3 bolts at the rad support off and single screw and 2 plastic fasteners at each front wheel well, you can then just gently pull on each corner of the bumper free if its body support fastener and it will slip forward. I left the bottom bumper fascia fasteners in place as I didn't want to remove the bumper completely just moved it forward enough to get the hands in at a better angle.
Well... the more lack of success the more determined this ol' fart got. It took a headlamp, long screwdriver, plastic tool and being somewhat of a contortionist to finally get the plug out. Now for the mod. Please see the attached image to confirm I have it right. /Thank you.
Almost there... according to this diagram: https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/turn-off-vess-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/#post-67494 Pin 7 (tab side counting left from plug) is green and correct, I have not metered out the ground on pin 12 (black), but it should work. I grounded mine to the chassis. (through the switched 200 ohm resistor of course)
Wrong connector, hwitten is referring to the one to the switch assy left under the dash. Both however are equally hard to get to. But if you have easy access to the connector behind the rad, you would use pin 3 (also green) and run a wire to the cabin to pick up the switch and resistor: Thanks to mikeselectricstuff for this similar diagram.
Good point, I guess I should have included this diagram as well in case someone decides to approach this from the front connector to the VESS box https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/turn-off-vess-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/page-2#post-67628
The deed is done... checked pin 12 to make sure it went to ground. Used "T" connectors to tap into green(7) and black(12). Built a little harness that had switch on one end, insulated spade connectors on the other with a 220 ohm resistor soldered into one wire and shrink-wrapped. Spade connectors plugged into "T" connectors. All good. No holes needed. Works great. VSS is powered on at each start. Press button, silence. Press again and VSS active again. Was not quite as easy-peasy as anticipated due to the close quarters and phat hands but at the end it all worked out. Actually better than when I first posted the question because it is now on by default until I'm in a place where silence is golden. Great forum co-operation. Thank you all.
I knew you could do it, if I can get my Dupuytrens Contracture six time operation - (going on 7) hands in there then anyone can. Neat job, and if I did it again I would make use of those tap connectors
That momentary switch you used, do you have a link to that...or is it an over the counter item at Napa/CT/Home Depot? Slogging thru Google is only giving me examples of short length units with back lighting. Thanks.